It was started by the couple Aimo and Nadia 50 years ago and currently managed by the 2nd generation. It is decorated with strong contemporary style, including paintings on the wall and furnishings. It is located on the edge of Milano, a block away from the metro exit. I decided to choose the 7-course Tasting menu. I also requested for changes of two items on the menu.
Amuse Bouche – A small
taste like a prologue
1).
Pumpkin cream, topped with almond cream and basil, in olive oil
2).
Fresh tomato, burrata cheese, roasted bread chunk at the bottom (covered by
tomato) and caper
3).
Mussel with buffalo cheese, roasted tomato, sliced dry porcini and chick pea
powder – Mussel was plump. Using buffalo cheese and porcini made a
well-balanced overall taste. Among the three amuse bouche, this is the best.
1st Course
- Mothia Salt Games: raw sea bream from Ligurian
Sea, citron from Calabria, Sicilian pistachio mayonnaise, green celery and
water-cress
Sea bream was served raw, it was fresh. The most tasteful item in the plate was the roasted water-cress. The baby green leave on top was turnip sprout leave. The orange piece of the right hand side of the plate was bergamot. It was a pleasant dish to start with.
Sea bream was served raw, it was fresh. The most tasteful item in the plate was the roasted water-cress. The baby green leave on top was turnip sprout leave. The orange piece of the right hand side of the plate was bergamot. It was a pleasant dish to start with.
Bread spelt, Tiracci,
mix grain, mix flour and grissini were served
Sesame crisp and fig
crisp
2nd Course –
That’s Raviolo! Raw crispy cuttle-fish from Adriatic Sea, lemon marmalade,
smoked scamorza cheese and beetroot granité
Cuttle-fish
was thinly sliced, so thin like a veil that they were transparent to see-thru
what was underneath. Raviolo was made with squid ink and cream. Beet ice cream,
almond cream, lemon marmalade were served on the side. To enhance flavor, squid
ink powder was sprinkled over the plate. Cuttle-fish slices were well prepared,
fresh and tasty. I later found out from the head chef that Raviolo was in
frozen condition first to ease the difficulties in handling. This was certainly
a delicious dish.
3rd Course – Rice (Carnaroli variety) with Nocellara olive oil, purple shrimp, Apulian tomato, oregano from Vendicari and capers from Pantelleria
Carnaroli rice was served with raw shrimp (It was named purple
shrimp), roasted tomato, basil leaves, caper and dill. What appeared to be in
orange color spots were shrimp head juice. I sucked shrimp head juice whenever
there were fresh shrimp served, but never thought of using it as an
ingredients. This was a creative way of full-utilization of shrimp.
4th
Course – Fantasy of fish & shellfish of the day flavored with aromatic
herbs, served with white beans from Maremma cooked in earthenware pot
This course was comprised of raw fish and shellfish, including
Red Mullet, shrimp, baby squid. They were served with white bean sauce, roasted
tomato, baby basil and shrimp head juice in orange color. It looked like the
head chef like to use shrimp head juice.
5th Course – Pate with pigeon and duck liver. Pate made with pigeon and duck liver, flavored with white truffle paste by Grazioli, with hot brioche bread
I could taste white truffle flavor in the pate. It was served
with white truffle sauce, chestnut sauce, kiwi, mustard marmalade and dry water
cress. I noticed the yellowish color of brioche. After meal, I found out from
the head chef the yellow color was from the specially treated eggs. I have not
found out what kind of egg?
6th
Course - Tenderloin of veal Fassone
breed in a light panure of chamomile and red onion with carrot in raspberry
vinegar
Veal tenderloin was broiled with sprout bread crumb on top. It
was served with celery, almond, dill, bergamot. Sauce was made of tomato,
chamomile and veal sauce. Diced porcini was wrapped in potato fillet and baby
carrot was cooked in raspberry vinegar with a cute piece of baby basil on top.
Veal was not tender enough, especially after I had the best pigeon in Da
Vittorio the day before. The tastiest ingredient was the carrot.
36-month Parmigiano
Reggiano cheese
served with whole wheat brioche and roasted tomato.
Pre-desert
It
was a cute looking lolly pop made of melon flour and apricot for the dough and
prickled pear for the filling. I later saw different color of lolly pop made
with different flavors.
Desert – Black Lemon: Sorrento lemon cream, lime foam, and ‘loomi’
powder, with Apulian almond milk
A
small portion of almond milk was served in a glass. In addition, a
multi-layered lemon tart in a plate. Starting from the bottom, a layer of
cookie dough, a layer of white chocolate and lemon cream flavored with San Remo
Lemoncello from Liguria, a layer of dark chocolate, and a layer of lemon
meringue sprinkled with black lemon (from Sorrento) powder. This lemon tart was
so flavorful. I hate to say it was better than what I had at Osteria
Francescana. The best part of the lemon was the meringue. It was lemony,
refreshing, creamy but not too rich. I tried but the manager wouldn’t not give
me the recipe for the meringue. This was my favorite course in this meal.
Petit Four
From left to right – beet-flavored marsh-mellow, mini-cannoli, mini-chocolate tart
This restaurant’s food taste better than Sadler’s even though both have earned 2 Michelin stars and affiliated with Relais and Chateau. Among what I ordered, seafood dishes seemed to be better than meat dishes. Its lemon tart definitely is the best. During the meal, I noticed the dining room staff moved around with very fast pace. After the meal, I found out it has 14 kitchen staff to serve 50 guests (max capacity). Without of doubt, the owner kept a very close eye on the operating cost.
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