Friday, May 22, 2026

Sézanne, 4/24/2026, Tokyo, Japan (13-Course, ¥56,925 include. Taxes, excl. gratuity)

Sézanne, 4/24/2026, Tokyo, Japan (13-Course, ¥56,925 include. Taxes, excl. gratuity)

We happened to arrange our traveling to Japan in an auspicious time. The exchange rate between dollar and ¥ is so favorable to the dollar comparing to last year, consequently lower the cost of the meal in favor of dollar consumers. The price tag at Sézanne is expensive, however its cuisine is very polished and sophisticated.

The restaurant is undergoing renovation. The final passage to the correct location led us through a few hallways and waiting rooms with a strong Zen flavored ambiance and a high-end setting. We were led to the dining room which can seat 42 diners, in addition, there are a few private dining rooms.

Sézanne, located on the 7th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, Tokyo at Marunouche right next to the bustling Tokyo station, is a Fine Dining French restaurant (3 Michelin stars, #1 in Asia 2024, helmed by chef Stephen Lancaster who succeeded chef Daniel Calvert as of April 1, 2026. It served neo-classic French cuisine (different from Robuchon’s traditional French cuisine), offered Japanese, seasonal ingredients and Chinese influences in a refined, modern style.

At present, Sezanne offered only one Tasting menu. 

1).48 Month Aged Comté, Yebisu, Sherry Vinegar

48ヶ月熟成コンテチーズ エビスビール シェリービネガー

This first course is a real treat, a fabulous one bite starter with a burst of flavor. A warm canapé cheese tart had been made with hard-to-find 4-year-aged Comté. Crust/shell was thin and very crunchy, spread in the middle was made with warm Comté mousse, topped with Sherry vinegar jelly (involving a lot of baking technique and delicate work). Sherry vinegar was supplied by a local vendor. What made this one-bite so precious was its ingredients were hard to get among top of the line. I have had 36 months aged Comté in Paris a few years ago. Taste of the 48-months aged was truly smooth, mature and impressive. In addition, the chef’s creativity made the crust/shell ultra-thin and crunchy. Thru my attendant, I found out that chef use flour and beer to make the crust crunchy. From this amazing first course, I knew the current new chef Lancaster’s team has meticulous attention to details and commitment to reflect his superb craftmanship and technique. (20/20)


2).Shiro Ebi (White Shrimp), Cucumber, Espelette Pepper

白海老 きゅうり エスプレット

According to the Japanese language, 白海老 means white oceanic elderly (white shrimp may deceivingly look small). This kind of shrimp are from Toyama Prefecture, have an extra tender texture, preferably served raw. They have a sweet taste (not sugary sweet, but sweet seafood umami taste). To enhance the taste, many chefs used shrimp head juice creatively. In this dish, chef used the head juice to marinate shelled shrimp, then served with salsa, diced cucumber, lemon juice, wine jelly, mild-flavored sweet pepper and tomatoes. The baby shrimp are refreshing, tender and scrumptious, with a unique taste of tenderness and pleasant head juice taste (similar to a combination of mild-flavored squid ink and clam juice). (20/20)


3.)Funka Bay Scallop, Wakayama Finger Lime, Katsuobushi 

噴火湾産ホタテ 和歌山県産フィンガーライム かつお

Funka bay, in Hokkaido, is a premier, renowned region for high quality Yesso scallops. These scallops are highly prized for their sweet, rich flavor and firm texture from slow growth in the cold environment and sustainable farming.  Chef Lancaster made a fancy basket to hold scallop in multiple ways of preparation. At the very bottom, scallop mousse and finger lime. Upward one level, a thinly sliced scallop crudo, fresh dill, and sour cream (It showed more distinctively to view from the side angle.). The shell was made of dill, flour and butter, another method of making shell/crust with crunchy texture. The thinly sliced scallop was barely enough to let the diners had a taste of the high-end scallop, although very delightful. The overall presentation makes it looks like an art work in the name of gastronomy. (20/20)



4).Amaou Strawberry, Foie Gras, Sandeman Port

あまおう フォアグラ ポートワイン

Chef Lancaster used different recipe to make crunchy shell. For this dish, he used all-purpose (AP) flour, butter and milk to make dough, shelled, fried in a special bakeware and dehydrated before filling with strawberry jelly coated Foie Gras mousse. Foie Gras mousse was prepared with Sanderman Port wine which is considered the most awarded port wine in the world, red ruby in color with aromas of red fruits. It is known for reliable, high-quality with complex notes of dried fruit, honey, and nutty oak. It pairs perfectly with aged cheeses or desserts or foie gras. Its logo features a caped man “The Don” in a Portuguese student cape. Once the Foie Gras mousse was prepared, mousse was molded into a ball shaped tart filling and coated with strawberry jelly when mousse was set in the molecular gastronomy process.

Chef included the Port to provide well balanced overall texture, flavor and taste. The making of this dish required delicate technique and experience. The strawberry jelly not only looked appetizing and mouth-watering, it looked outstanding. (20/20)



5).Hokkaido Kegani (Horsehair Crab), Provence Green Asparagus, Kristal Caviar 北海道産毛蟹 プロヴァンス産グリーンアスパラガス クリスタルキャビア

Hokkaido is renowned worldwide for its sweet and premium crab - Horsehair crab (Kegani), Snow crab, Hanasaki Gani (Color Crab) and King crab. Kegani, a Japanese delicacy known for its sweet, delicate and tasty flavor are considered one of the best in Asia.

Both crab meat and persimmon fruit are very cold type of food in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) theory, it is better avoid eating this food combination to circumvent potential hardship on the digestive system.

At the bottom of the plate, fresh crab meat and crab emulsion cream were served, surrounded by the cute baby tender and crispy asparagus tips from Provence. In the center of the plate, Kristal Caviar from Paris was served and sitting on top of asparagus emulsion. Crab meat was so umami, with the after taste, a customer would wish to ask for more. Price has been high due to increased demand and limited supply, as seafood grow very slowly with more intense flavor in cold water around Hokkaido. (20/20)


6).Coq Au Vin, Chicken Milk Bun

コック・オ・ヴァン 鶏肉のミルクパン

This dish uses only the upper part of the chicken wings where wings connect to the breast and shoulder, slow cooked with very low temperature. It had a melt-in-mouth type of tender texture. Chicken wings were stuffed with mushroom duxelles (a bit coarser than diced), then mixed with crumbled bacon, fresh onion, bone sauce and chicken sauce. Since it is Coq Au Vin, it required to have chicken cooked in red wine Coq Au Vin. It was served with a nice milk bun. It was a brioche. This is the first occasion to see bread in this meal since Japanese style dinner usually do not serve bread in basket like western style. (19/20)




7).Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid), Amela Tomato, Tarragon

ホタルイカ アメーラトマト タラゴン

Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid) are small cephalopods, typically just two or three inches long, famous for generate their own light, living in deep waters off Japan, migrating to the surface in spring to spawn in Toyama Bay, creating a natural light show. They are a seasonal delicacy in Japan, raw, boiled, marinated or grilled. In this dish, served with layered pasta with Tarragon flavor, layered pasta with tomato flavor, layered diced scallop, scallop sauce, and baby squid. It also has the fragrant Tarragon oil on the very top to balance this seafood accentuated delicacy. Firefly Squid are extremely tender, have a rich slightly sweet flavor with a creamy texture inside, just like baby white shrimp, a unique taste of seafood. (19/20)


8).Brioche With Bordier Butter

ブリオッシュ ボルディエバタ

Bread and butter were very good, came out pleasantly warm with flaky layers. They were brioche loaves and Bodier butter from Brittany, France. Many Michelins 3-star restaurants in Paris started serving this kind of butter a few years ago, including Épicure where the previous Sézanne’s chef Calvert honed his skills and techniques. Bodier has got a distinctively yellowish glow and silky texture as a result of its signature maturation, kneading and pounding process with very yummy dairy flavor. (20/20)

9).Kinmedai (Splendid Alfonsino) From Chiba Prefecture, Miyagi Mussels, Vin Jaune

千葉県産金目鯛 宮城県産ムール貝 ヴァン・ジョーヌ

Kimedai (Splendid Alfonsino or Golden Eye Snapper) is a highly prized deep-sea fish in Japanese cuisine, especially for sushi and sashimi where it is regarded as a premium delicacy. It retains rich and natural oil and healthy omega-3 fat acids. Deep water dwelling (to 300 Meters), making it challenging and costly to catch. It is a bright red fish with very large eyes. Among deep sea fish, the closest fish that has the almost comparable flavor and taste would be Chilean Sea Bass. Because of its high fat content, it is tender, melt-in the mouth and slightly umami flavor.

In this dish, fish was caught from Chiba Prefecture located in the Eastern Pacific Coastline. Fish filet was placed skin side down on the grill in medium heat, because of its natural fish fat, a thin layer of crust was formed during the grill process. The fish filet taste with slightly crunchy top and rare-medium in the center, an ideal level of serving tender filet of fish. White asparagus was slow poached and served with meaty mussels and Vin-Jaune based sauce which is another rare treat.

Vin Jaune is a special type of wine, made from the late-harvesting of the Savagnin grapes with slightly higher alcohol of 13% - 15% ABV resulted from the 6+ year oxidated aging process. Vin Jaune sauce is a rich, creamy French reduction sauce originating from the Jura region. It is highly aromatic with a distinct nutty, sherry-like flavor. I was able to get a special dish, almost alike, at Septime, Paris in Feb. 2020. It was a true pleasure to have it again. (20/20)


10).Brittany Pigeon, Rhubarb, Snap Peas From Kagoshima Prefecture

ブルターニュ産鳩 ルバーブ 鹿児島県産スナップエンドウ

Roasted pigeon in medium-rare was succulent and tender. Breast was further divided into two categories – the core part and the extremely tender part. Pigeon breast was served with snap peas from Kagoshima Prefecture where all greens strive, rhubarb puree, green peas, reduced red wine and pigeon stock. The special piece of extra tender breast is noticeable only when you observe with great attention at the beginning of slicing and eating. It was a little triangle piece connecting to the rest of pigeon’s chest and back. They were separated from the rest of the bird at the very beginning of the cutting process. (20/20)



11).Pigeon Tart and Tea

鳩のタルト お茶

Pigeon was cooked and served in another style. A tart was filled with well-seasoned diced pigeon, pigeon liver, heart, leg, peas and sliced rhubarb stems. Top of the tart was covered by sliced rhubarb. Rhubarb was cut horizontally and then diagonally to show the edible and tender part of the plant. The crust of the shell was just as crunchy, thin and crispy, like the shell provided in Comté canapé cheese tart. In addition, a cup of tea consisted of pigeon stock and herbs accompanied the warm tart. (19/20)


Palette Cleanser - Musk Melon from Shizuoka Prefecture, Champagne, Mint

Sitting on the top, there were melon granite and melon made like a pale green flower with multiple pedals. It not only looked elegant; it tasted so pleasant and refreshing. It was served in Champagne form, most likely required molecular gastronomy technique to make the exquisite and attractive forms, and mint. At the bottom, there was Champagne sorbet and cream. I wished I could have more. (20/20)




12).Oscietra Caviar, Buttermilk, White Chocolate

オシェトラキャビアバターミルク ホワイトチョコレー

The official desert is white chocolate and Oscietra Caviar in sweet mode. At the bottom, there was white chocolate mousse, topped with butter milk and covered with Ocietra Caviar and edible ornament gold leaves. It was not great in quantity but very scrumptious. (19/20)


13).Mignardisesv – Petit Fours

ミニャルディーズ

It was a quasi-Kumquat tart, jiu-jitsu is the ultimate Açai family fruits, famous for its high anti-oxidant feather.

Chocolate brownie made with Okinawa brown sugar and Manjuri chocolate. It was not overwhelmingly sweet like other brownies, but temptingly tasty.

A candle-shaped chocolate mousse treat. Scrumptious, dark chocolate taste and creamy, an ideal indulgence at the end of meal. The making of any tube-shaped chocolate dessert is a real test of pastry chef’s technical know-how. It requires an ideal room temperature, an ideal melted chocolate temperature and chef’s skills to play with all conditions. (20/20)

It was a wonderful meal. Space and services were impeccable with high-end setting. Food was superb. Chef Lancaster, with his cross continent and cross-cultural experience was able to bring out his extra technical know how to make his cuisine to another level of perfection. His cuisine reflecting Japanese seasonality thru polished French technique with Scandinavian fermentation and aging to generate more creativity, balance, depth and harmony.