Oria Restaurant (120€, 5/26/2023, 10 – Course incl VAT)

 Oria Restaurant (120€, 5/26/2023, 10 – Course incl VAT)

Celebrity Chef Martin Berasategui’s Oria restaurant stands right next door to his Lasarte (Michelin 3-star restaurant) in the Monument Hotel, Barcelona. Oria restaurant is a modern and sophisticated space integrated into the lobby of the Hotel Monument by means of an inverted pyramid structure.

Around the world, chef Berasategui has got quite a few restaurants that boast Michelin stars, including Martin Berasategui (3-star), Lasarte and Oria (each 1-star). Oria is like the informal dining room to Lasarte’s more upscale ambiance. I visited Lasarte in 2018. Interior decoration in Lasarte was fabulous. The style and elements of core interior design in Oria is very similar to what was done in Lasarte, but in a delicate way, characterized by its high ceiling, a sky light that floods the space with natural light and lamp pool. In Oria as well as in Lasarte, the emphasis is on light and texture. The thin strings of lights poking through the ceiling were exquisite, elegant and classic. I thought the more moderate setting in Oria suits it well. To make a comparison - Lasarte has a more upscale atmosphere and to dine at Oria is a gastronomical way to taste the avant-garde cuisine by the local innovative chefs on the fusion of Mediterranean, Catalan and Basque cuisine.

There are two types of Tasting Menus. I chose the small Menu Tradition which contains 9 courses to give my stomach a little break. It started with Amuse Bouche.

I. Codfish Fitter with Chamomile Mayonnaise and Yuzu Gel

Local cod fish, made into fish ball, breaded and fried. Served with Chamomile Mayo and nice refreshing Yuzu gel (yellow gel), and adorned with shiso (purple). Yuzu flavor provided a kicker to start your palate, while the beautiful purple-blue shiso enhanced the visual side of stimulus. (18/20)

II. Crunchy Violet Potato and Red Shrimp with Salt

Local shrimp, served with house-made violet potato chips, hazelnut mayonnaise, anise flower (green), pink salt, and shrimp head juice. Chef at Oria was fully committed to bringing out shrimp’s full flavor not just the flesh/meat part of the flavor. It was very tasty and inspirational for an amuse bouche. (18/20)

III. Fake Tomato Macaron and Trout Tartar

It was fig macaron with smoked and marinated trout with KiIimanti (yellow) cream and plants. Kilimanti is the highest flowering plant, can reach almost 2-ft tall at 8000+ feet elevation on Mount Kilimanjaro. They are known as everlasting flowers because they can bloom year-round, grow in clumps with a yellowish-brown shade, with lemon-scented, pale white leaves and unusually shaped, delicate flowers. It was lemon-scented, but the source of this course certainly showed chef’s dedication and creativity. I had inquired with our server whether chef Berasategui’s signature dish of Smoked Eel is available at Oria, and was informed that it was not available. (18/20)

IV. Sandwich stuffed with Mushroom Duxelle with Ibrian Foil, Black Garlic and Truffle Mayonnaise

Sandwich was filled with local trumpet mushroom, with Iberia ham, baby parsley leaf, spring onion, bottled President cream, black garlic with truffle. It was a real gem with well-balanced flavor. I could feel that my previous evening’s sumptuous dinner at El Celler de Can Roca probably had enhanced my appetite and I was ready for the mains. (19/20)

Bread and Butter

Our server first brought over warm hand towels to clean our hands before bread and butter were served. There were traditional, whole wheat and whole grain with 3 different flavors of butter – salt, rosemary and olive. (17/20)

Mains

I. Cured Scallop with Sage Hollandaise, Noisette Butter Cream and Codium Seaweed Crisp

Sea scallop was from Spain’s main seafood supply region Galicia, scallop was marinated with sugar and salt for approximately 20 minutes. Hollandaise sauce was served with sage and spinach, caviar of trout and grapefruit jelly, codium seaweed (known as green sea finger or dead man’s fingers) and adorned with sage flower. Codium seaweed, after being thoroughly washed, is eaten raw, and the spicy-vanilla aroma made codium seaweed was a great companion to hard-drinks but also to fruits. It can be used to infuse spirits! (19/20)

II. Hake Kokotxas with Pilpil on Iberian Pork Stew and Baby Squid Tartare

Kokotxas is a traditional Basque fish stew. The dish is made from stewed fish neck/dewlap served with a sauce made from salt cod, white wine, garlic, olive oil and constant motion allows the olive oil and salt cod to emulsify into the fantastic pil-pil sauce. Kokotxas means chest in Catalan, is the equivalent of cheek on fish head.

Ragout of Iberian pork was in the base with tartare of roasted squid on top of ham and hake cheek at the very top, skirted by emulsion of chives (green) and the lovely bollga flower. Fish was extraordinarily tender and tasty, flavor was superb. Different parts of fish require different cooking time, chef has done a very prescient timing and quality commitment beyond what I expected from a Michelin 1-star restaurant. (20/20)

III. Hake Loin in Tempura, Iodized and Acidulated Cockles Sauce

Hake loin was fried in coated tempura, served with garlic mayonnaise, iodized sauce with cream of celeriac, cockles with crunchy quinoa, cream pea, codium seaweed, pea shoot, marinated cockles at the base along with celeriac family. The preparation for hake loin was completely different, it also required different timing and technique. I was surprised with the tenderness and freshness of the hake loin. It has got a fuller tenderness than the fish cheek. Both of them were superbly orchestrated. (19/20)                          

IV. Rack of Boneless Suckling Lamb with Cream of Salsify and Grilled Marrow Perigueux Sauce

Lamb was from Valladolid, a province of northwest Spain in the central part of the Autonomous community of Castile and León, served with Perigueux sauce. Meats in the region of Spain are famous for their unique flavor. Lamb was first seared over high heat then slow-cooked at medium-low temperature to create a more intense flavor due to the fat present in the cuts. The fat also helps to create tender meat. While Valladolid in Spain is famous for its meats and roasts, Valladolid of Mexico, located in the Yucatan state of Mexico, is recognized for its natural beauty, cenotes and the iconically renowned archeological site Chichen Itza. Perigueux sauce was amazingly complementary with the tender and succulent lamb. Since this was the last savory dish, chef offered a bit more variety – sweet potato and potato radish cream, baby carrot, chardonnay gel and chardonnay tempera, bone marrow and black mushroom (murgula or morels). They were all delicious and sumptuous. (20/20)

Palate Cleanser – Basil Water with Creamy Raw Almond and Lemon Peel Ice Cream

Green sauce at the base of the plate was made by basil water, green beans from Basque + lime + almond paste + skin of lemon + white chocolate. It was so refreshing. (20/20)

V. Creamy Juniper, White Chocolate and Citrus

By appearance, it was not that complicated. But by taste and flavor, it was superbly sophisticated. There was lemon foam, creamy white chocolate with juniper inside cream, popcorn lemon (pearl), meringue of grapefruit (ice cream), tangerine sorbet, tangerine jelly, bergamot (white, from Italy) and rice paper caramel. It was one of the most satisfying ends of the meal desserts that I have had. (20/20)

Petit Fours (18/20)

1). Tart Tatin

2). Pistachio and Caramelized Pistachio

3). Passion Fruits Macaron with White Chocolate

4). Raspberry Jelly

5). Cookie and Pedro Jimenez, Egg and Cream

They were all pleasant and appetizing and we were able to enjoy them with an almost full stomach. (18/20)

We had a very good experience at Oria and I was quite delighted with the Tasting Menu at Oria. It has delivered beyond what most of the Michelin 1-star restaurants have delivered in terms of taste, flavor, creativity, and technique.

ABaC, Barcelona

ABaC, Barcelona (€155, 5/27/2018, 12 Course, incl. VAT)

ABaC started in 2000 and moved to the current site, the leafy residential San Gervasi barrio, a wealthy enclave by the hill side of Barcelona, in 2008. It is within a boutique hotel “Hotel ABaC Barcelona”, 10 metro stops from Plaça de Catalunya. Head chef Jordi Cruz, focused on Modern Spanish Cuisine, has won the 3-star accolade since 2017 and he was not an el Bulli alumni. 

Guests can look out onto a garden through picture windows while in dining room. Tables are adequately spaced and covered with impeccably white linen tablecloths reminiscent of what Martin Berasategui, Lasarte had.

There were 2 sets of Tasting Menu – Menu Tradition for €155 and Menu Avant Garde for €185. I chose the smaller one, Menu Tradition. I was escorted to the kitchen first to enjoy the first three courses of bite-size appetizers.

Appetizers

1).  Lime Cactus, Tequila and Green Leaves

There was a cute little cactus plant on the kitchen counter. On top of the plant, it was filled up with apple crunchy, celery purée, corianders, lime juice, Tequila foam and Begonia flower. The inclusion of Tequila made this simple appetizer refreshing and enjoyable. 

2). Crunchy Bread with Spicy Tomato Sauce and Basil

Spicy tomato mousse wrapped by crunchy bread and garnished with basil mousse. It was slightly spicy but very flavorful and pleasant.

3). Galicia Salmon and Cured Egg Yolk, Trout Eggs, Soya Butter and Nori Textures

Nori was mixed with grains and made into a taco shell, filled up with Galicia salmon from Northern Spain, cured egg yolk, trout eggs and soy butter foam. Cured egg yolk complemented to the overall perception with its subtle and distinctive taste.

I was then escorted to get seated in the dining room.

1^st Course – Bloody Mary on the Rocks and Bloody Mary’s Macarons

The last time I had this sort of combination was at Pierre Gagnaire a few years ago. It was one of my favorite dishes there. Bloody Mary on the rock served at ABaC was slightly different. Its ingredients include Vodka, salt, tobacco, and tomato water (no color – with the blood red of the tomato drip-filtered). The process of filtering tomato somehow gave a more anemic taste and flavor. But, it was still a delicious drink, especially when accompanied by the macaron.

Bloody Mary sorbet was sandwiched in between macarons. Sorbet was perfectly flavored and with good consistency. Macarons were fresh and light. A perfect match for the palate.

2nd Course – Whipped Hazelnut Butter with Bread Crusts and Caviar

Asturian Caviar was from Netherland. Butter was mixed with hazelnut purée and hazelnut oil and formed a bell-shaped ball. Hazelnut powder and olive were garnished on top of butter ball. This bell-shaped butter ball was softer than ordinary whipped butter because it was lightened by cream. It was a different way of accompanying caviar.

3rd Course – Almond and Foie Gras Shaves with Honey, Vanilla and Miso

Even though chef Jordi Cruz was not an el Bulli alumni, he still diligently performed molecular gastronomy. At the very top, there was a sheet of honey foam covering shaved frozen foie gras and vanilla foam. At the bottom, there was almond ice cream, miso and almond crunchy. It was a fusion dish, but it was also nicely balanced and tasty.

Three different types of bread were offered, plain white, seed bread and apricot and nut bread. Accompanied by one type of butter. I requested for apricot and nut bread only.

4th Course – Chinese box: Chinese Bread, Fried Brioche, Grilled Eel and Wasabi

It was brought to my table in a shrine-shaped wooden box. As I opened the lid, there was a fried Chinese bun inside. As I opened the sandwich bun, I saw a piece of grilled eel with teriyaki sauce. My server grated some fresh wasabi on it. Wasabi’s fast fading fieriness and grilled eel’s smoky and teriyaki flavor were good complement.

5^th Course – Roasted Turbot and Barnacles with Seaweed, Baked Eggplants and Treated Skins

A mouth watering piece of roasted turbot was artistically presented in the center of the plate and surrounded by 2 layers of cream/sauce and served with 2 pieces of barnacles from Galicia, Northern Spain. The best part of the fish was the glazed skin which was crispy and full of flavor. Outer layer sauce was made of fish broth, shellfish and aubergines (eggplants). There were also pickled onion (in pink) to complement the seafood flavor. At the very top, Ramallo seafood foam covering turbot to maintain the moisture in fish. Overall, the cream and sauce were incredibly intense in flavors and complemented well with the turbot.

When I visited Santiago de Compostela and Oviedo at the beginning of May, I saw some barnacles at restaurants with not so fresh quality, therefore, forgoing the opportunity to enjoy it. I was delighted to have it at ABaC. It has an odd-looking skin and tastes a bit like abalone. I personally considered abalone is tastier. Barnacles has been treasured partially probably because its hard-to-harvest condition. Fisherman had to risk their life to pick the best barnacles from the cliff incessantly hit by treacherous water. At present, it costs approximately approximately €150 - €200/kilo.

6^th Course – Tuna Rice, Mediterranean Tomato Stew, Tuna Bely and Pecorina Romano

It was brought to my table in an earthy looking urn. At the bottom of the urn, there was an almost translucent tuna toro. Toro sat on cooked rice and seaweeds and served with tomato stew and spices including garlic, basil, julienned scallion and micro green. At the very top, it was covered by Pecorina Romano cheese foam. At the bottom, brown sauce was made from the thickened tuna sauce. It was another well-balanced fusion product.

7^th Course – Amélie Esmerald Oyster with Fermented Kale and Chargrilled Piparras Chili Peppers

It seemed that chef at ABaC has created a few versions of Amélie Esmerald oyster-based dishes mainly comprised of fermented vegetable and smoke flavored piparras pepper. In this dish, it was fermented kale (in pale yellow), purée, fried green kale, charcoal grilled piparras chili pepper. In addition, salted butter was used to cover the oyster. In US, we usually eat oyster with cocktail sauce mainly comprised of ketchup, horseradish, lemon juice and tobacco sauce to make a nicely balanced taste. Chef at ABaC used different combination to make the overall taste more balanced.

8^th Course – “Our Pine Cone”: Cured Lamb Tea and Pine Leaves

This was served as an auxiliary item with the roasted lamb. Lamb broth with pine leaves infused tea. Had a distinctive pine flavor, served as a refresher.

9^th Course – Roasted, Cured and Dried Suckling Lamb Meats, Confit Small Artichokes, Pine Shoots, Pistil Crud and Caramelize Jus

There were 3 parts in this dish, lamb from Catalunya. 1). Cured, dried and roasted lamb. 2). Roasted baby lamb loin. 3). Cheese curd. Dried and cured lamb was really flavorful, it tasted a bit crunchy. Roasted baby lamb loin was finger-licking good, the meat was tender, you did not even need a knife. Cheese curd was almost like yogurt, but a bit firmer than yogurt and had a custard-like firmness. Confit baby artichokes, served as a neutralizer, was so delicious. Caramelized jus form lamb stock made me feel I wouldn’t mind to stuff a bit more.

10th Course – Chamomile “pillow”, Milk and Biscuit Roll with a Touch of Lightly and Spicy Citruses

Cookie crumbs were at the bottom where a white fragile crate made of inside layer and outside layer. Inside, there were lemon grass with chamomile ice cream; outside, there was milk infusion of Earl Gray tea foam and sheet. It was pretty looking, it incorporated cold and warm, sweet and sour, a truly pleasant palate cleanser. Some critics have written that chef Jordi Cruz’s dishes are as pretty as he is good looking.

11^th Course – Chocolate Fragile Crate

It was a chocolate crate sitting on chocolate paper and chocolate foam at the bottom, with caramel chocolate on the top for artistic presentation. As I cut it open to eat the inside of the chocolate crate, it was filled with vanilla ice cream and milk foam, toffee chocolate with mint, chocolate with coffee, strawberry with beet. It was a chocolate galore.

12^th Course - Sweet Pumpkin

The petit fours were served in a gold toned set resembling pumpkin flower, with the various sweets held by the various endings. They included raspberry marshmallows, violet yogurt, chocolate nougatine, pumpkin flower, chocolate amaretto, cheese cake. One stood alone item was its famous signature frozen lipstick desserts. This lipstick looking item was presented in a rock-looking block with trough, it was a strawberry lollypop (lipstick case) filled up with frozen strawberry slush. The content inside the lipstick varied from meal to meal. Petit fours were all light and flavorful, ideal for pleasing your palate without over burdening your stomach.

I liked Chef Jordi Cruz’s cuisine. It was innovative, not just for being creative without making perfection on the taste, flavor and balance. Even though he was an el Bulli alumni, he was able to master the art of molecular gastronomy. At present, ABaC (a Michelin 3-star) under-prices its Tasting Menu comparing with Lasarte’s (also a Michelin 3-star) €205. I wonder how much longer it would stay at the current level.