Friday, May 22, 2026

Sézanne, 4/24/2026, Tokyo, Japan (13-Course, ¥56,925 include. Taxes, excl. gratuity)

Sézanne, 4/24/2026, Tokyo, Japan (13-Course, ¥56,925 include. Taxes, excl. gratuity)

We happened to arrange our traveling to Japan in an auspicious time. The exchange rate between dollar and ¥ is so favorable to the dollar comparing to last year, consequently lower the cost of the meal in favor of dollar consumers. The price tag at Sézanne is expensive, however its cuisine is very polished and sophisticated.

The restaurant is undergoing renovation. The final passage to the correct location led us through a few hallways and waiting rooms with a strong Zen flavored ambiance and a high-end setting. We were led to the dining room which can seat 42 diners, in addition, there are a few private dining rooms.

Sézanne, located on the 7th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, Tokyo at Marunouche right next to the bustling Tokyo station, is a Fine Dining French restaurant (3 Michelin stars, #1 in Asia 2024, helmed by chef Stephen Lancaster who succeeded chef Daniel Calvert as of April 1, 2026. It served neo-classic French cuisine (different from Robuchon’s traditional French cuisine), offered Japanese, seasonal ingredients and Chinese influences in a refined, modern style.

At present, Sezanne offered only one Tasting menu. 

1).48 Month Aged Comté, Yebisu, Sherry Vinegar

48ヶ月熟成コンテチーズ エビスビール シェリービネガー

This first course is a real treat, a fabulous one bite starter with a burst of flavor. A warm canapé cheese tart had been made with hard-to-find 4-year-aged Comté. Crust/shell was thin and very crunchy, spread in the middle was made with warm Comté mousse, topped with Sherry vinegar jelly (involving a lot of baking technique and delicate work). Sherry vinegar was supplied by a local vendor. What made this one-bite so precious was its ingredients were hard to get among top of the line. I have had 36 months aged Comté in Paris a few years ago. Taste of the 48-months aged was truly smooth, mature and impressive. In addition, the chef’s creativity made the crust/shell ultra-thin and crunchy. Thru my attendant, I found out that chef use flour and beer to make the crust crunchy. From this amazing first course, I knew the current new chef Lancaster’s team has meticulous attention to details and commitment to reflect his superb craftmanship and technique. (20/20)


2).Shiro Ebi (White Shrimp), Cucumber, Espelette Pepper

白海老 きゅうり エスプレット

According to the Japanese language, 白海老 means white oceanic elderly (white shrimp may deceivingly look small). This kind of shrimp are from Toyama Prefecture, have an extra tender texture, preferably served raw. They have a sweet taste (not sugary sweet, but sweet seafood umami taste). To enhance the taste, many chefs used shrimp head juice creatively. In this dish, chef used the head juice to marinate shelled shrimp, then served with salsa, diced cucumber, lemon juice, wine jelly, mild-flavored sweet pepper and tomatoes. The baby shrimp are refreshing, tender and scrumptious, with a unique taste of tenderness and pleasant head juice taste (similar to a combination of mild-flavored squid ink and clam juice). (20/20)


3.)Funka Bay Scallop, Wakayama Finger Lime, Katsuobushi 

噴火湾産ホタテ 和歌山県産フィンガーライム かつお

Funka bay, in Hokkaido, is a premier, renowned region for high quality Yesso scallops. These scallops are highly prized for their sweet, rich flavor and firm texture from slow growth in the cold environment and sustainable farming.  Chef Lancaster made a fancy basket to hold scallop in multiple ways of preparation. At the very bottom, scallop mousse and finger lime. Upward one level, a thinly sliced scallop crudo, fresh dill, and sour cream (It showed more distinctively to view from the side angle.). The shell was made of dill, flour and butter, another method of making shell/crust with crunchy texture. The thinly sliced scallop was barely enough to let the diners had a taste of the high-end scallop, although very delightful. The overall presentation makes it looks like an art work in the name of gastronomy. (20/20)



4).Amaou Strawberry, Foie Gras, Sandeman Port

あまおう フォアグラ ポートワイン

Chef Lancaster used different recipe to make crunchy shell. For this dish, he used all-purpose (AP) flour, butter and milk to make dough, shelled, fried in a special bakeware and dehydrated before filling with strawberry jelly coated Foie Gras mousse. Foie Gras mousse was prepared with Sanderman Port wine which is considered the most awarded port wine in the world, red ruby in color with aromas of red fruits. It is known for reliable, high-quality with complex notes of dried fruit, honey, and nutty oak. It pairs perfectly with aged cheeses or desserts or foie gras. Its logo features a caped man “The Don” in a Portuguese student cape. Once the Foie Gras mousse was prepared, mousse was molded into a ball shaped tart filling and coated with strawberry jelly when mousse was set in the molecular gastronomy process.

Chef included the Port to provide well balanced overall texture, flavor and taste. The making of this dish required delicate technique and experience. The strawberry jelly not only looked appetizing and mouth-watering, it looked outstanding. (20/20)



5).Hokkaido Kegani (Horsehair Crab), Provence Green Asparagus, Kristal Caviar 北海道産毛蟹 プロヴァンス産グリーンアスパラガス クリスタルキャビア

Hokkaido is renowned worldwide for its sweet and premium crab - Horsehair crab (Kegani), Snow crab, Hanasaki Gani (Color Crab) and King crab. Kegani, a Japanese delicacy known for its sweet, delicate and tasty flavor are considered one of the best in Asia.

Both crab meat and persimmon fruit are very cold type of food in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) theory, it is better avoid eating this food combination to circumvent potential hardship on the digestive system.

At the bottom of the plate, fresh crab meat and crab emulsion cream were served, surrounded by the cute baby tender and crispy asparagus tips from Provence. In the center of the plate, Kristal Caviar from Paris was served and sitting on top of asparagus emulsion. Crab meat was so umami, with the after taste, a customer would wish to ask for more. Price has been high due to increased demand and limited supply, as seafood grow very slowly with more intense flavor in cold water around Hokkaido. (20/20)


6).Coq Au Vin, Chicken Milk Bun

コック・オ・ヴァン 鶏肉のミルクパン

This dish uses only the upper part of the chicken wings where wings connect to the breast and shoulder, slow cooked with very low temperature. It had a melt-in-mouth type of tender texture. Chicken wings were stuffed with mushroom duxelles (a bit coarser than diced), then mixed with crumbled bacon, fresh onion, bone sauce and chicken sauce. Since it is Coq Au Vin, it required to have chicken cooked in red wine Coq Au Vin. It was served with a nice milk bun. It was a brioche. This is the first occasion to see bread in this meal since Japanese style dinner usually do not serve bread in basket like western style. (19/20)




7).Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid), Amela Tomato, Tarragon

ホタルイカ アメーラトマト タラゴン

Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid) are small cephalopods, typically just two or three inches long, famous for generate their own light, living in deep waters off Japan, migrating to the surface in spring to spawn in Toyama Bay, creating a natural light show. They are a seasonal delicacy in Japan, raw, boiled, marinated or grilled. In this dish, served with layered pasta with Tarragon flavor, layered pasta with tomato flavor, layered diced scallop, scallop sauce, and baby squid. It also has the fragrant Tarragon oil on the very top to balance this seafood accentuated delicacy. Firefly Squid are extremely tender, have a rich slightly sweet flavor with a creamy texture inside, just like baby white shrimp, a unique taste of seafood. (19/20)


8).Brioche With Bordier Butter

ブリオッシュ ボルディエバタ

Bread and butter were very good, came out pleasantly warm with flaky layers. They were brioche loaves and Bodier butter from Brittany, France. Many Michelins 3-star restaurants in Paris started serving this kind of butter a few years ago, including Épicure where the previous Sézanne’s chef Calvert honed his skills and techniques. Bodier has got a distinctively yellowish glow and silky texture as a result of its signature maturation, kneading and pounding process with very yummy dairy flavor. (20/20)

9).Kinmedai (Splendid Alfonsino) From Chiba Prefecture, Miyagi Mussels, Vin Jaune

千葉県産金目鯛 宮城県産ムール貝 ヴァン・ジョーヌ

Kimedai (Splendid Alfonsino or Golden Eye Snapper) is a highly prized deep-sea fish in Japanese cuisine, especially for sushi and sashimi where it is regarded as a premium delicacy. It retains rich and natural oil and healthy omega-3 fat acids. Deep water dwelling (to 300 Meters), making it challenging and costly to catch. It is a bright red fish with very large eyes. Among deep sea fish, the closest fish that has the almost comparable flavor and taste would be Chilean Sea Bass. Because of its high fat content, it is tender, melt-in the mouth and slightly umami flavor.

In this dish, fish was caught from Chiba Prefecture located in the Eastern Pacific Coastline. Fish filet was placed skin side down on the grill in medium heat, because of its natural fish fat, a thin layer of crust was formed during the grill process. The fish filet taste with slightly crunchy top and rare-medium in the center, an ideal level of serving tender filet of fish. White asparagus was slow poached and served with meaty mussels and Vin-Jaune based sauce which is another rare treat.

Vin Jaune is a special type of wine, made from the late-harvesting of the Savagnin grapes with slightly higher alcohol of 13% - 15% ABV resulted from the 6+ year oxidated aging process. Vin Jaune sauce is a rich, creamy French reduction sauce originating from the Jura region. It is highly aromatic with a distinct nutty, sherry-like flavor. I was able to get a special dish, almost alike, at Septime, Paris in Feb. 2020. It was a true pleasure to have it again. (20/20)


10).Brittany Pigeon, Rhubarb, Snap Peas From Kagoshima Prefecture

ブルターニュ産鳩 ルバーブ 鹿児島県産スナップエンドウ

Roasted pigeon in medium-rare was succulent and tender. Breast was further divided into two categories – the core part and the extremely tender part. Pigeon breast was served with snap peas from Kagoshima Prefecture where all greens strive, rhubarb puree, green peas, reduced red wine and pigeon stock. The special piece of extra tender breast is noticeable only when you observe with great attention at the beginning of slicing and eating. It was a little triangle piece connecting to the rest of pigeon’s chest and back. They were separated from the rest of the bird at the very beginning of the cutting process. (20/20)



11).Pigeon Tart and Tea

鳩のタルト お茶

Pigeon was cooked and served in another style. A tart was filled with well-seasoned diced pigeon, pigeon liver, heart, leg, peas and sliced rhubarb stems. Top of the tart was covered by sliced rhubarb. Rhubarb was cut horizontally and then diagonally to show the edible and tender part of the plant. The crust of the shell was just as crunchy, thin and crispy, like the shell provided in Comté canapé cheese tart. In addition, a cup of tea consisted of pigeon stock and herbs accompanied the warm tart. (19/20)


Palette Cleanser - Musk Melon from Shizuoka Prefecture, Champagne, Mint

Sitting on the top, there were melon granite and melon made like a pale green flower with multiple pedals. It not only looked elegant; it tasted so pleasant and refreshing. It was served in Champagne form, most likely required molecular gastronomy technique to make the exquisite and attractive forms, and mint. At the bottom, there was Champagne sorbet and cream. I wished I could have more. (20/20)




12).Oscietra Caviar, Buttermilk, White Chocolate

オシェトラキャビアバターミルク ホワイトチョコレー

The official desert is white chocolate and Oscietra Caviar in sweet mode. At the bottom, there was white chocolate mousse, topped with butter milk and covered with Ocietra Caviar and edible ornament gold leaves. It was not great in quantity but very scrumptious. (19/20)


13).Mignardisesv – Petit Fours

ミニャルディーズ

It was a quasi-Kumquat tart, jiu-jitsu is the ultimate Açai family fruits, famous for its high anti-oxidant feather.

Chocolate brownie made with Okinawa brown sugar and Manjuri chocolate. It was not overwhelmingly sweet like other brownies, but temptingly tasty.

A candle-shaped chocolate mousse treat. Scrumptious, dark chocolate taste and creamy, an ideal indulgence at the end of meal. The making of any tube-shaped chocolate dessert is a real test of pastry chef’s technical know-how. It requires an ideal room temperature, an ideal melted chocolate temperature and chef’s skills to play with all conditions. (20/20)

It was a wonderful meal. Space and services were impeccable with high-end setting. Food was superb. Chef Lancaster, with his cross continent and cross-cultural experience was able to bring out his extra technical know how to make his cuisine to another level of perfection. His cuisine reflecting Japanese seasonality thru polished French technique with Scandinavian fermentation and aging to generate more creativity, balance, depth and harmony.










































Wednesday, October 1, 2025

Gastronomy Joël Robuchon, 9/3/2025, Tokyo, Japan (5-Course, ¥33599 incl. Taxes, excl. Gratuity)

There are many Robuchon dining spots in Tokyo, I have always been eager to dine at Gastronomy Joël Robuchon which is the only Michelin 3-star restaurant located in Tokyo in the Robuchon empire. Before Chef Robuchon passes away, he has been awarded 30+ stars. Thru AMEX Platinum Concierge, I was able to secure a reservation and was informed to pre-order the Degustation menu with either of 1, 2 or 3 main courses along with the associated Amuse Bouche, appetizers, cheese and desserts. The selected pre-order can’t be changed once reservation is confirmed. 

Joël Robuchon is located in a large 2-stories building sharing its premises with other Robuchon establishments in this new development in Tokyo, Yebisu Garden Place, very similar to the Hudson Yard project in NYC, USA. In the dining room, staff were stationed in key posts to make sure diners’ needs was attended to. The setting is a luxurious neo-French Chateau, reminiscent of an 18-century palace with a formal atmosphere. The restaurant does require formal dress code.

Once we were seated. I notice there were carts of food being wheeled around, one cart for bread, one cart for cheese before dessert, two carts for desserts to go with the dessert course. It started with Amuse Bouche.

Amuse Bouche

1).Gaufrette/Sea Urchin and shrimp

Gaufrette is a French term meaning “little waffle” that refer to a few different foods, including a crisp, wafer biscuit or Belgian-style waffle. This dish firstly prepared Sea Urchin mousse made of sea urchin, creamy mashed potatoes, white wine and purée shrimp. Mousse sandwiched in between waffles and then deep fried the sandwich in butter. Mousse was fresh and scrumptious; coating was lightly battered and crunchy. I felt like one is not enough. Sea urchin was just tasty enough to open the palette.

2).Caviar Imperiale de Sologne

To make a simple description, it is pâté of crab layered with fennel jelly, then blanketed with caviar. Crabs are Zuwaigani crab, also known as Japanese Snow Crabthat is prized for its succulent, sweet meat and tender texture. It is a popular ingredient in various Japanese dishes.

Caviar, succulent and plump is from La Maison Nordique, renowned for their incomparable quality, caviar have a firm grain, a slightly iodized taste and perfectly balanced curing. Caviar is placed on crab meat which is surrounded by crustacean jelly made from fennel, lobster and shrimp with blobs of cauliflower cream dots and parsley dots on top. Cauliflower dots made of puréed cauliflower, potatoes and cream. This jelly, made of fennel and crustacean broth, was the amazing synthesizer. It made this dish with such a fabulous appearance, indulgent texture and flavors. Although it is served as amuse bouche which is usually in the experimental stage, it has already been recognized as one of the signature dishes. I noticed that the quantity of jelly has been increased in this version from the prior version. I was deeply impressed by all aspects of this dish. It is a miracle to be so perfect. I inquired the Director on how many cauliflowers dots are on each plate. He would not give me a straight answer. Regardless, it is a practice of patience.

Breads

Once the bread cart parked by your table, the attendant automatically gave us their signatures – a small baguette and a slice of rye bread. In addition, the restaurant served olive oil and Froment du Léon butter from Brittany. It is a high-quality dairy product with a very special yellowish luster and smooth and rich diary taste. The varieties of bread include breads with charcoal, anchovies, basil, plain, cheese, corn, sun dried tomatoes, bacon, olive, rosemary, etc. They looked so yummy, but I had to watch how much bread I ate so that I had enough room for the rest of the meal. The real game will start with the cold appetizer and then hot appetizer.

Les Entrées Froides / Cold Appetizers

La Niçoise – Soft Boiled Egg in Modern Style “Niçoise” with Macedonia Vegetables

It was green egg with gold leaf. Never had green egg before. To make dish with such a lush green color, the source has to be natural with multiple color combination and some molecular gastronomic techniques. It required Ukokkei chicken and Tokyo Bekana lettuce to make dark green sphere.


Tokyo bekana is a leafy green vegetable in the celery cabbage family. It has a mild flavor and tender texture, making it an excellent substitute for lettuce.

Ukokkei chickens(烏骨鶏), originally brought to Japan from China, also known as Silkie chicken, is a unique and highly prized breed of chicken in Japan. Renowned for its distinctive black skin, bones, and white fluffy feathers, long been treasured for their rarity and rich nutritional value, has a vibrant and deep orange color yolk. Silkie chickens are known for laying very few highly prized eggs and being very expensive. While a typical chicken lays 280 to 300 eggs annually, a Silkie only lays around 40-80.

Egg was sitting on top of tomato purée which was surrounded by dots of potato purée (one of Robuchon’s signature dishes) and pea purée, a trio appearance. I have had Ukokei chicken (It means dark bone chicken) and am familiar with the taste. In this course, diner could feel the richness of the running yolk in the mouth. Taste of chicken blended well with other ingredients. The highlight of this course was the green chicken egg and the rich taste of the egg yolk.

Le Sauman – Wasabi Smoked Salmon, Delicate Mousse Served with Wasabi Scented Cream

It was wasabi smoked salmon wrapped around salmon mousse and adorned with salmon roe on top, with slightly scented wasabi cream served on the side. Smoked salmon was juicy and fresh. It was with gentle wasabi flavor; some diners probably would prefer a stronger taste of wasabi.

Les Entrées Chaudes / Hot Appetizers

L’Asperge Verete – “Jet Farm” Green Asparagus Creamy Velvety with Ricotta Cheese Raviolis Flavored by Fresh Mint

Baby Ricotta cheese ravioli was very tasty, served with fresh asparagus and other micro vegetable. What made the difference was the creamy, slightly minty sauce.

L’Escargot – Snail Accompanied with Parsley and Garlic Purée Breading  

It was prepared with the “Panure” process. It is a French term for the breadcrumbs or breading used to coat food before cooking, such as fish or chicken, involves dredging food in flour, dipping it in egg, and then coating it with breadcrumbs before pan searing. Chef Robuchon had his variation, his cooking method used dry roasted garlic and parsley in making croquette and then baked the croquette. Chef used the local escargot, not imported from France. Snails were juicy, tender and succulent.

Les Plats Chauds / Main Courses

Le Hata – Iberique Steamed Hata with Sage Blossom, Served with Kamonasu and Chorizo Mousseline

Hata, also known as the Japanese Grouper, has a translucent white meat with its delicate and sweet flavor, similar to sea bass. Best season is in winter.

Two different types of sauce were served, tomato sauce and Chorizo sauce. Herbs and julienned fresh vegetable and coriander served on the side of fish filet. In addition, fried eggplant pockets and steamed Hata made a balanced taste. Eggplant was from Kyoto; it was a special type of eggplant with fewer seeds and smoother taste. I have seen it in the market place. It is smaller than the original western eggplant and shorter than the Oriental eggplant. It was the best eggplant that I have ever had. The texture and the seedless feature definitely please diners’ tastebud. I originally requested medium Hata but was prepared well-done. However, the 2nd attempt was delivered mediumly cooked. 

Le Carré d’Agneau – Roasted Rack of Lamb with Thyme, Vegetable Calissons in a Rich Juice

Lamb was from France, 3-month-old baby lamb which required great care. Since it was roasted with skin on, it required baby lamb be kept in an environment without too much movement to damage the skin. Baby lamb was served with roasted red pepper covering potatoes reminiscent of Calisson (Calisson is a diamond-shaped sweet made with ground almonds). In addition, the famous mashed potatoes served on the side. The mashed potatoes were outstanding. Before I dined at Robuchon, I used to think Chef David Bouley in NYC made the best mashed potatoes. It is sad, Chef Bouley has passed away a few years ago, so did Chef Robuchon.


I have had baby lamb in other fine dining restaurants. It is distinctive in its texture and flavor. It was roasted (medium) and it was tasty, tender, succulent, adequately spiced with perfect flavor. I was very satisfied with my choice. 

Cheese

Cheese course is where every great French restaurant differentiate itself. To offer cheeses in various state of ripeness and served at the right temperature. I selected a few varieties – 2-year-old aged Comté, medium flavored Goat cheese, strong flavored Goat cheese, Brillat-Savarin (a decadent soft-ripened French triple-crème) and a slice of nut and dry fruit bread. My priority - I needed to conserve space for the complete dessert courses.


DESSERTS  

I.Dessert Course on the Menu

1).Coconut Chocolate Shell Served on a Passion Fruit Jelly

The inflated white ball, Espuma, was achieved by pumping gas into the mixture of coconut and white chocolate, a practice of Molecular Gastronomy pioneered by Ferran Adria. It was served with delicious nectarine of passion fruit, pineapple and mango at the bottom of the plate. Flavor was also enhanced by dices of tropical fruits displayed around the plate as well as the chocolate fence around the Espuma. It involves using a whipping siphon with gas cartridge to incorporate air into purées, soups or creams. A delightful and refresh palette cleaner.


2).Light Lemon Soufflé with Creamy Fromage Blanc Ice Cream

It was light lemon soufflé with creamy fromage ice cream. A very light weight soufflé with fine texture.

II.Trolley 1- Pastries, Cakes and Mignardis

They are all delicious and temptation. With my stomach being in overloaded condition, I still had a few “wanted”, it was too difficult to resist the temptation. I knew I can’t possibly have every type among displayed in the trolley: lemon cream tart, grapefruit tart, raspberry chocolate tart, opera cake, chocolate cake, Napoleon, vanilla ice cream, chocolate ice cream, raspberry sorbet and St. Honoreé cake, etc. My favorite was Napoleon (Mille-Feuille). Chef made the layers of crust so fine and so crunchy, one of the best Napoleon that I have ever had.


III.Trolley 2 – Fantasies and Chocolate

The selection of desserts is gargantum. I was so full, but my palette still not satisfied. I got pleasure simply by looking at the trolley which displayed more temptation such as chocolate caramel, chocolate with sea salt, raspberry chocolate, chocolate praline, noisette, crispy hazelnut, dark chocolate hazelnut, ice candies almond, brownies, meringue, madeleines, truffles, yuzu white chocolate bon bon on a lovely lemon biscuit, etc. My favorite was Yuzu bon bon.



Among all the fine dining restaurants that I have visited, Gastronomy Robuchon and William Frachon/Chapeau Rouge in Dijon are the two still using the glass dome to cover the dinner plate while food being brought from kitchen to table. It was a great pleasure to enjoy the aroma and smelt upon the moment of serving when dome was removed.

Upon departure, the restaurant gave us a pineapple cake. We ate it the following day, it was yummy and different from all other pineapple cake. According to the Director, the restaurant does have a bakery, but not for retail. A customer will get his/her baked goods by invitation only.