Sézanne, 4/24/2026, Tokyo, Japan (13-Course, ¥56,925
include. Taxes, excl. gratuity)
We
happened to arrange our traveling to Japan in an auspicious time. The exchange
rate between dollar and ¥ is so favorable to the dollar comparing to last year,
consequently lower the cost of the meal in favor of dollar consumers. The price
tag at Sézanne
is expensive, however its cuisine is very polished and sophisticated.
The
restaurant is undergoing renovation. The final passage to the correct location
led us through a few hallways and waiting rooms with a strong Zen flavored
ambiance and a high-end setting. We were led to the dining room which can seat
42 diners, in addition, there are a few private dining rooms.
Sézanne,
located on the 7th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, Tokyo at
Marunouche right next to the bustling Tokyo station, is a Fine Dining French
restaurant (3 Michelin stars, #1 in Asia 2024, helmed by chef Stephen Lancaster
who succeeded chef Daniel Calvert as of April 1, 2026. It served neo-classic
French cuisine (different from Robuchon’s traditional French cuisine), offered
Japanese, seasonal ingredients and Chinese influences in a refined, modern
style.
At present, Sezanne offered only one Tasting menu.
1).48 Month Aged Comté, Yebisu, Sherry Vinegar
48ヶ月熟成コンテチーズ エビスビール
シェリービネガー
This first course is a real treat, a fabulous one bite
starter with a burst of flavor. A warm canapé cheese tart had been made with hard-to-find 4-year-aged
Comté. Crust/shell was thin and very crunchy,
spread in the middle was made with warm Comté mousse, topped with Sherry
vinegar jelly (involving a lot of baking technique and delicate work). Sherry
vinegar was supplied by a local vendor. What made this one-bite so precious was
its ingredients were hard to get among top of the line. I have had 36 months
aged Comté in Paris a few years ago. Taste of the 48-months aged was truly smooth,
mature and impressive. In addition, the chef’s creativity made the crust/shell ultra-thin
and crunchy. Thru my attendant, I found out that chef use flour and beer to
make the crust crunchy. From this amazing first course, I knew the current new
chef Lancaster’s team has meticulous attention to details and commitment to reflect
his superb craftmanship and technique. (20/20)
2).Shiro Ebi (White Shrimp), Cucumber, Espelette Pepper
白海老 きゅうり エスプレット
According to the Japanese language, 白海老 means white oceanic
elderly (white shrimp may deceivingly look small). This kind of shrimp are from
Toyama Prefecture, have an extra tender texture, preferably served raw. They
have a sweet taste (not sugary sweet, but sweet seafood umami taste). To
enhance the taste, many chefs used shrimp head juice creatively. In this dish,
chef used the head juice to marinate shelled shrimp, then served with salsa,
diced cucumber, lemon juice, wine jelly, mild-flavored sweet pepper and
tomatoes. The baby shrimp are refreshing, tender and scrumptious, with a unique
taste of tenderness and pleasant head juice taste (similar to a combination of mild-flavored
squid ink and clam juice). (20/20)
3.)Funka Bay Scallop, Wakayama Finger Lime, Katsuobushi
噴火湾産ホタテ 和歌山県産フィンガーライム かつお節
Funka bay,
in Hokkaido, is a premier, renowned region for high quality Yesso scallops.
These scallops are highly prized for their sweet, rich flavor and firm texture from
slow growth in the cold environment and sustainable farming. Chef Lancaster made a fancy basket to hold
scallop in multiple ways of preparation. At the very bottom, scallop mousse and
finger lime. Upward one level, a thinly sliced scallop crudo, fresh dill, and
sour cream (It showed more distinctively to view from the side angle.). The
shell was made of dill, flour and butter, another method of making shell/crust with
crunchy texture. The thinly sliced scallop was barely enough to let the diners
had a taste of the high-end scallop, although very delightful. The overall
presentation makes it looks like an art work in the name of gastronomy. (20/20)
4).Amaou Strawberry, Foie Gras, Sandeman Port
あまおう フォアグラ ポートワイン
Chef Lancaster used different recipe
to make crunchy shell. For this dish, he used all-purpose (AP) flour, butter
and milk to make dough, shelled, fried in a special bakeware and dehydrated
before filling with strawberry jelly coated Foie Gras mousse. Foie Gras mousse
was prepared with Sanderman Port wine which is considered the most awarded port
wine in the world, red ruby in color with aromas of red fruits. It is known for
reliable, high-quality with complex notes of dried fruit, honey, and nutty oak.
It pairs perfectly with aged cheeses or desserts or foie gras. Its logo
features a caped man “The Don” in a Portuguese student cape. Once the Foie Gras
mousse was prepared, mousse was molded into a ball shaped tart filling and
coated with strawberry jelly when mousse was set in the molecular gastronomy
process.
Chef included the Port to provide
well balanced overall texture, flavor and taste. The making of this dish
required delicate technique and experience. The strawberry jelly not only
looked appetizing and mouth-watering, it looked outstanding. (20/20)
5).Hokkaido Kegani (Horsehair Crab), Provence Green Asparagus, Kristal
Caviar 北海道産毛蟹 プロヴァンス産グリーンアスパラガス クリスタルキャビア
Hokkaido is renowned worldwide for
its sweet and premium crab - Horsehair crab (Kegani), Snow crab, Hanasaki Gani
(Color Crab) and King crab. Kegani, a Japanese delicacy known for its sweet,
delicate and tasty flavor are considered one of the best in Asia.
Both crab meat and persimmon fruit
are very cold type of food in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) theory, it is
better avoid eating this food combination to circumvent potential hardship on
the digestive system.
At the bottom of the plate, fresh
crab meat and crab emulsion cream were served, surrounded by the cute baby tender
and crispy asparagus tips from Provence. In the center of the plate, Kristal
Caviar from Paris was served and sitting on top of asparagus emulsion. Crab
meat was so umami, with the after taste, a customer would wish to ask for more.
Price has been high due to increased demand and limited supply, as seafood grow
very slowly with more intense flavor in cold water around Hokkaido. (20/20)
6).Coq Au Vin, Chicken Milk Bun
コック・オ・ヴァン 鶏肉のミルクパン
This dish uses only the upper part of the chicken wings where wings connect to the breast and shoulder, slow cooked with very low temperature. It had a melt-in-mouth type of tender texture. Chicken wings were stuffed with mushroom duxelles (a bit coarser than diced), then mixed with crumbled bacon, fresh onion, bone sauce and chicken sauce. Since it is Coq Au Vin, it required to have chicken cooked in red wine Coq Au Vin. It was served with a nice milk bun. It was a brioche. This is the first occasion to see bread in this meal since Japanese style dinner usually do not serve bread in basket like western style. (19/20)
7).Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid), Amela Tomato, Tarragon
ホタルイカ アメーラトマト タラゴン
Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid) are small
cephalopods, typically just two or three inches long, famous for generate their
own light, living in deep waters off Japan, migrating to the surface in spring
to spawn in Toyama Bay, creating a natural light show. They are a seasonal
delicacy in Japan, raw, boiled, marinated or grilled. In this dish, served with
layered pasta with Tarragon flavor, layered pasta with tomato flavor, layered
diced scallop, scallop sauce, and baby squid. It also has the fragrant Tarragon
oil on the very top to balance this seafood accentuated delicacy. Firefly Squid
are extremely tender, have a rich slightly sweet flavor with a creamy texture
inside, just like baby white shrimp, a unique taste of seafood. (19/20)
8).Brioche With Bordier Butter
ブリオッシュ ボルディエバター
Bread
and butter were very good, came out pleasantly warm with flaky layers. They were
brioche loaves and Bodier butter from Brittany, France. Many Michelins 3-star
restaurants in Paris started serving this kind of butter a few years ago,
including Épicure where the previous Sézanne’s chef Calvert honed his
skills and techniques. Bodier has got a distinctively yellowish glow and silky
texture as a result of its signature maturation, kneading and pounding process with
very yummy dairy flavor. (20/20)
9).Kinmedai (Splendid Alfonsino) From Chiba Prefecture, Miyagi Mussels, Vin Jaune
千葉県産金目鯛 宮城県産ムール貝 ヴァン・ジョーヌ
Kimedai (Splendid Alfonsino or
Golden Eye Snapper) is a highly prized deep-sea fish in Japanese cuisine,
especially for sushi and sashimi where it is regarded as a premium delicacy. It
retains rich and natural oil and healthy omega-3 fat acids. Deep water dwelling
(to 300 Meters), making it challenging and costly to catch. It is a bright red
fish with very large eyes. Among deep sea fish, the closest fish that has the
almost comparable flavor and taste would be Chilean Sea Bass. Because of its
high fat content, it is tender, melt-in the mouth and slightly umami flavor.
In this dish, fish was caught from
Chiba Prefecture located in the Eastern Pacific Coastline. Fish filet was
placed skin side down on the grill in medium heat, because of its natural fish
fat, a thin layer of crust was formed during the grill process. The fish filet
taste with slightly crunchy top and rare-medium in the center, an ideal level
of serving tender filet of fish. White asparagus was slow poached and served
with meaty mussels and Vin-Jaune based sauce which is another rare treat.
Vin Jaune is a special type of wine,
made from the late-harvesting of the Savagnin grapes with slightly higher
alcohol of 13% - 15% ABV resulted from the 6+ year oxidated aging process. Vin
Jaune sauce is a rich, creamy French reduction sauce originating from the Jura
region. It is highly aromatic with a distinct nutty, sherry-like flavor. I was
able to get a special dish, almost alike, at Septime, Paris in Feb. 2020. It
was a true pleasure to have it again. (20/20)
10).Brittany Pigeon, Rhubarb, Snap Peas From Kagoshima Prefecture
ブルターニュ産鳩 ルバーブ 鹿児島県産スナップエンドウ
Roasted pigeon in medium-rare was
succulent and tender. Breast was further divided into two categories – the core
part and the extremely tender part. Pigeon breast was served with snap peas
from Kagoshima Prefecture where all greens strive, rhubarb puree, green peas, reduced
red wine and pigeon stock. The special piece of extra tender breast is
noticeable only when you observe with great attention at the beginning of
slicing and eating. It was a little triangle piece connecting to the rest of
pigeon’s chest and back. They were separated from the rest of the bird at the
very beginning of the cutting process. (20/20)
11).Pigeon Tart and Tea
鳩のタルト お茶
Pigeon was cooked and served in
another style. A tart was filled with well-seasoned diced pigeon, pigeon liver,
heart, leg, peas and sliced rhubarb stems. Top of the tart was covered by
sliced rhubarb. Rhubarb was cut horizontally and then diagonally to show the
edible and tender part of the plant. The crust of the shell was just as crunchy,
thin and crispy, like the shell provided in Comté
canapé cheese tart. In addition, a cup of tea consisted of pigeon stock and
herbs accompanied the warm tart. (19/20)
Palette Cleanser - Musk Melon from Shizuoka Prefecture, Champagne, Mint
Sitting on the top, there were melon
granite and melon made like a pale green flower with multiple pedals. It not
only looked elegant; it tasted so pleasant and refreshing. It was served in
Champagne form, most likely required molecular gastronomy technique to make the
exquisite and attractive forms, and mint. At the bottom, there was Champagne
sorbet and cream. I wished I could have more. (20/20)
12).Oscietra Caviar,
Buttermilk, White Chocolate
オシェトラキャビアバターミルク ホワイトチョコレー
The official desert is white chocolate and Oscietra Caviar in sweet mode. At the bottom, there was white chocolate mousse, topped with butter milk and covered with Ocietra Caviar and edible ornament gold leaves. It was not great in quantity but very scrumptious. (19/20)
13).Mignardisesv – Petit Fours
ミニャルディーズ
It was a quasi-Kumquat tart, jiu-jitsu is the ultimate Açai family fruits, famous for its high anti-oxidant feather.
Chocolate brownie made with Okinawa brown sugar and Manjuri chocolate. It was not overwhelmingly sweet like other brownies, but temptingly tasty.A candle-shaped chocolate mousse treat. Scrumptious, dark chocolate taste and creamy, an ideal indulgence at the end of meal. The making of any tube-shaped chocolate dessert is a real test of pastry chef’s technical know-how. It requires an ideal room temperature, an ideal melted chocolate temperature and chef’s skills to play with all conditions. (20/20)It
was a wonderful meal. Space and services were impeccable with high-end setting.
Food was superb. Chef Lancaster, with his cross continent and cross-cultural
experience was able to bring out his extra technical know how to make his
cuisine to another level of perfection. His cuisine reflecting Japanese
seasonality thru polished French technique with Scandinavian fermentation and
aging to generate more creativity, balance, depth and harmony.



