Noma, Copenhagen

Noma, Copenhagen – May 2, 2012

We had high expectation before we left for this trip. We got up shortly before 4 am US Eastern Time on 2/1/12 in order to dial promptly at 10 am Nordic time for making reservation. Luckily we were able to make a reservation on 5/2.

We got to the place a little while before our scheduled time 7 pm. The restaurant is located in water front with a crane nearby. When I saw a young man cleaning the window I started chatting with him. He has been a waiter with Noma for about a year. He also told me the pastry chef left a few days ago. I knew right away that desert is not going to be the highlight of the meal.

Noma changed its menu daily; therefore, the menu did not provide any details. It just provided names of the major ingredients. I requested for a printed menu and got one which was in the very simplest format. Its owner/chef Rene Redzepi labeled its style “authentic cuisine”. It is earthy and refined, ancient and modern, both playful and serious, emphasizing the old ways of drying, smoking, pickling and curing. Using rutabagas, whey, pine and juniper, shells, hay and twigs, it seeks to turn the culinary dial back toward the natural world.

We had the tasting menu which comprising 15-20 items. I would just describe some highlight of our meal.

We started with a nice vase with bread sticks shaped like twigs hidden in the green branches. You had to practice treasury hunting if you want to eat. Then, we got a plate of green moss and fried moss with twigs hidden in it. Then, we had some live shrimps on ice bed in a glass encasement. In hindsight, I honestly did not remember how I ate them. I guessed I was too overwhelmed with the excitement and struggle between being an adventurous foodie and being a Buddhist.










Midpoint we had a pot filled with soil and a green plant. Both plant and soil were edible. Although neither of them had great taste. Each guest also had the opportunity to prepare for his/her own sunny side with herbs. My thought was that I did not have to spend $300+ for making a sunny side up at home. I was there for a fine dining experience but I got a lot of novelty experience instead.

Desert was an experience. We got a chunk of green sponge looking cake. It was made with a scoop of tea flavored cream infused with plenty of extremely sub-zero cold air in a high tech machine. It looked spongy, it tasted spongy. But, it did not have much substance, nothing like a sumptuous piece of cake or soufflé. Then, we had some chocolate pieces coated with cumin seeds and other spices.

Our request for visiting the kitchen was kindly granted. After meal, we were accompanied by the executive chef Orlando and manger to visit their kitchen as well as their lab which focused on experimenting and developing new products. Noma definitely spent a fair portion of resources for staying innovative in the business.

My experience at Noma was an experience which was different from my expectation of a true fine dining experience.

Kong Hans Kaelder, Copenhagen

Kong Hans Kaelder, Copenhagen – May 1, 2012

Kong Hans is located in a building used as King Han’s hay storage. It was built with pointed ceiling with angles so that partition can be erected for fire prevention purpose. When it was used as a restaurant, the partition were removed, however, the previous structure is still visible. It looks very interesting and is associated with Relais & Chateau.

I ordered a tasting menu. To start with, we had some nuts and quail eggs as Amuse Bouche. There are two types of flavor, one was pickled and the other one was smoked with the shell on which was to be served with the flavored dip. I happened to like the smoked eggs better. The restaurant made excellent miniature rye bread which looked like some tiny bread loaves. We were also served with some small shrimp salad and oysters on the shell. I have never had this type of small shrimp before. They were quite tender and tasty. The Nordic cold water produced excellent quality of seafood.

1st course was “Frothy Carrots & Sea buckthorn Berries with Langoustines." The langoustines certainly were finely prepared in saffron sauce.

2nd course - “Haddock & Mussels with Parsley, two ways from Lammefjorden." The size of mussel was certainly very impressive, the largest that I have ever seen. Both mussel and haddock were from the Nordic region, therefore, the quality and taste were different from what I normally get from NYC.

3rd course - “Lobster Roasted with Licorice Root." I usually hate anything flavored with licorice. But, this dish with very mildly flavored licorice actually yielded a very balanced flavor and the lobster is very tender, not over-cooked.

4th course - “Spring Lamb Assortment, Morel ragout with fermented garlic & grilled spring onions." The Spring Lamb was from the French Pyrenees region. I have heard last year while I was travelling in the Rhone valley region that the Pyrenees region’s lamb providing extraordinary taste because of the salty grass fed to the lamb. I ordered the lamb rare-medium and it was properly prepared.

5th course - “A selection of Mature European Cheese." I had one type out of each category served with their house-made jam such as passion fruit/pumpkin flavor and black currant flavor.

6th course was a desert, more of a palate cleaner. I requested for “Blood Orange Sorbet” as a substitute for “Dried Apples & Nuts” in the original menu. It was full of blood orange flavor and very pleasing. I wouldn’t mind to have another serving.










7th course was “Ice Cream of 100% Chocolate & Prunes, Almond custard & pickled cherries." Chocolate and prune go together very well and the pickled cherries and custard balanced out with the chocolate. After this desert we were served a tray of petite- four. We were so full at this moment; we had to ask the waitress to pack the petite-four for us. She somehow figured out that we liked the miniature rye bread; she also put extra rye breads in our take-home bag.

Kong Han’s Kaelder is an elegant place to have an enjoyable fine dining experience, deserving its one Michelin star.

Kiin Kiin, Copenhagen

In the past few years I have read many articles about Noma that I perceived the shift of gastronomical center from continental Europe to Nordic. Since I am a foodie from fine dining in some of the best restaurants in France, Spain, Germany and New York, I decided to purchase a plane ticket using my mileage account in early August 2011 for a trip in May 2012. The itinerary was to stay in Copenhagen for four days and in Stockholm for five days. A few weeks after I reserved my plane ticket, NY Times had an article on Noma with the similar thought.

Kiin Kiin, Copenhagen – April 30, 2012

I and my companion made 11 reservations for our trip, nine dinner appointments and two lunch appointments. We arrived at Copenhagen on April 30 and had our 1st dinner at Kiin Kiin which was one of the two Thai-fusion style restaurants in the Michelin starred list. Kiin Kiin was awarded with one star. I had quite a few emails with owner/chef Henrik before we left for the trip. When we arrived at Kiin we were greeted by Henrik and treated with very warm hospitality. We felt like we were VIPs. We were led to sit down at the lounge which was decorated with oriental style furniture and decoration with very cozy feeling. Henrik explained to us how the dinner was going to be proceeded. It would start with Amuse Bush at the lounge. There were about six items listed on the menu. However, we were served with about ten items before we were led to the walk-in level for our dinner. The restaurant also had seating on the 2nd floor.

There were 3 items brought out in the 1st tray for the Amuse Bouche. One dish was a very thinly sliced lotus root with lime leaves, one was soy meringue with cashew, and the 3rd one was prawn cracker with tapioca pearls, tomato and chili. The lotus root was my favorite, the best vegetable chip that I have ever had. It had a very sophiscated and tasteful flavor. Henrik has informed me it was a long process to make it. It required a day of drying process after you sliced the lotus root followed by low temperature roasting in the oven. Lotus roots were sprinkled with grounded apple before serving. The 2nd tray brought to use had Samphire Tempura, Ming Kam crispy wonton, coriander bread with sesame and smoked Chiang Mai sausage. In addition, we also had a few other items. I could only remember fried shrimp balls. Then, we were led to the walk-in level for dinner.





























The walk-in level has probably hundreds of woven baskets hung from the ceiling. Inside each basket there was a light to provide lighting. It also had Buddha’s pictures and statures displayed
.
1st course - “Soup based on Shellfish & Galanga. Chicken Satay with Crispy Chicken Skin and Crumble." It was a dish with varieties of shellfish and infused broth with Thai spices. It was delicious and not overwhelmingly spicy. The crumbled chicken skin was not greasy; it complemented chicken satay’s taste.










2nd course - “Salad with Orchids and Lemongrass, Grilled Prawns, Crispy Fish with Lemon and Green Mangoes." Prawns were from the Greenland Sea with a texture, quality and taste superbly superior. Hendrix informed me that the prawns were marinated overnight to enhance the taste.










3rd course - “Red Coconut Curry with White Asparagus & Litchee." This dish can be served in hot or cold forms. If it was in hot form, it was served with broth; if it was served in cold, it was served with sorbet. I requested for the cold one to keep my palate in balance.










4th course was “Foie Gras with Sweet Plum Wine & Ginger." I have found out that plum and/or plum wine go well with foie gras.

5th course - “Quail in Coconut Milk with Lime Leaves & Jasmine Rice." Since Kiin is a Thai-Nordic fusion style food, bread was not served, instead rice was served along with this course in case you were not full.

6th course - “Lemongrass Sorbet in Pineapple juice” as palate cleaner. It was very refreshing.

7th course - “Banana Cake with Salted Coconut Ice Cream."

All courses were superb. My favorite was Prawns and Quail. The texture and flavor of the Greenland Prawns were so sophisticated and tender, the best that I have ever had. It required not only the best quality; it also required good preparation work and techniques. The same with the Quail dish, while a piece of leg was crispy with skin on and not over-cooked; a piece of breast was cooked medium-rare. They are the true test of chef’s techniques and skills. Kiin Kiin definitely deserves the one Michelin star awarded.

La Pergola

La Pergola, Rome, 11-3/2012

I have read someone’s rave review on La Pergola. After my hard-to-forget wonderful meal at Vendome, I wonder which one is really better between Vendome and La Pergola.

La Pergola’s rooftop location in Monte Mario offers the best spectacular panoramic view of the city, and as you’re seated in your plush chair enjoying the night view of St. Peter’s dome, you know you’re in for a fine dining experience. First, your waiter will present you with menus: food, wine and water. Then, you must choose between the German wonder-chef Heinz Beck’s alta cucina specialties. The desert course is extravagant; including tiny petit fours and treats. The wine list is as thrilling as one might expect with the financial backing of the Waldorf-Astoria and their investment in one of the top wine cellar in Italy.

In summer, there is alfresco dining on an adjacent terrace. The setting is elegant, trompe l’oeil ceilings, wood paneling, beautifully set tables, and sliding glass walls. It also has one large tapestry on the wall by the entrance door.

They are also famous for their”water list”. A list of about 25 waters from around the world. Each has a 1/3 page description of mineral content, amount of carbonation, etc. I chose the Grand 9-course Tasting Menu and started with Amuse Bush.

Amuse Bouche
3 slices of Filet Mignon marinated in Cappuccino sauce with arugula and baby greens served on a rectangular glass plate placed on top of a glass tray filled with white pebbles. Cappuccino flavor was not overwhelming. If you have delicate taste bud, you can taste it.

1st course – “Duck Foie Gras with Apple, Almond and Amaretti.”
Duck Foie Gras was coated with chopped and slightly roasted almond and finely chopped apple. The tiny bite size of jello was made with Amaretto which makes a hint of sweetness to balance the salty taste of Foil Gras. Amaretto jelly made this dish more balanced and tasty.

2nd course - “Lightly Grilled Tuna with Mediterranean Flavors, Fennel and Red Onion in 'Carpione' Marinade."  1/3 cooked tuna was marinated and coarsely chopped. Tuna was placed at the bottom and topped with diced fennel and red onion. The dish was very artistically displayed with different colors and configurations.

3rd course – “The Sea.”
It was soup with seaweeds and seafood. It included ingredients that I have never seen before, such as sea asparagus and some clams. The creative chef also made some flaky prawn which virtually disappeared when hot prawn broth was poured into the bowl. Upon discussing with the manager, I was informed this dish was more of conceptual dish.










4th course – "Fagotelli 'La Pergola'."
It is a pasta dish. It is also one of their signature dishes. I am not a pasta fan. However, I have had opportunities to enjoy outstanding house-made pasta dishes in NYC and the one served in Vendome. But, I must admit this was definitely the best pasta dish that I have ever had in my life. It was ravioli filled with cheese mousse topped with prosciutto ham and finely chopped herbs. I assumed it required extra steps to wrapped cheese mousse in ravioli. The reward was when you bit on each piece; cheese mousse melt in your mouth . . . At the end of dinner, the manager asked my opinion on the meal. I told him my favorite dish was this “Fagotelli” without of doubt. He told me that he tasted them every single day during the ten years of working there. He never got tired of the taste. Neither would I get tired of the taste.

5th course – “King Prawn in Tempura on Puree of Fried Squids."
Spliced prawn were battered in light tempura and fried. It was served with pink colored sauce made of pureed squids. The fried prawn sat on top of the pink sauce and top with shredded fennel and a piece of green vegetable. It is a refreshing dish.

6th course – “Black Cod with Celery Sauce and Curry Crust."
It was a thick piece of cod and not overcooked. I hate overcooked fish. The curry crust probably required ultra high temperature to prevent fish from being overcooked. The celery root and sauce placed at the bottom of fish gives it an overall well balanced taste.

7th course – “Venison in Pistachio Crust with Chestnut Puree and Persimmon Jam.”
I ordered the venison rare-medium. I have noticed that the quality of venison in Europe was different from US’s. It has milder gamy taste and more tender. Chestnut puree was very smooth and tasty. Venison coated in Persimmon Jam sauce offered a very unique sensation on the taste bud. During this trip I have had venison in three Michelin 3-star restaurants – Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, Vendome and La Pergola. Both Vendome’s and La Pergola’s were excellent. This is my 2nd favorite dish at La Pergola.

The savory dishes ended with Venison. They were all very well prepared and with balanced taste. Compare La Pergola with Vendome, Vendome was a bit more refined and with higher creativity.

8th course – "Cheese."
They were all from Italy. I had two medium ripe goat cheeses, a 36 month parmesan, gorgonzola dolce from Alto Adige, a pecorino from Siena and one semi-ripen soft cheese served with a black current jam and persimmon jam. I had twinge of fullness after finishing half of the cheese plate. I requested to take home the unfinished half cheese platter so that I could save some room for the multi-courses of deserts.

9th course – “Grand Deserts” started with a palette cleaner, a mild flavored lime sorbet in tropical fruits soup.

1st round: Raspberries in champagne aspic, white chocolate cigar, mascarpone cream topped with dark chocolate morsels and white chocolate custard with wild strawberries layers.

2nd round: chocolate soufflé, white coffee cream and a cappuccino in a cup with white coffee foam.

3rd round: two cappuccino macaroons, two lollypops of fruit jelly candies and two scoops of ice creams, one coated with white chocolate.










When I finally finished with the last round of Grand Desert it was about 11pm, I was too content to leave. La Pergola’s Fagotelli definitely was the best pasta dish that I have ever had and the spectacularly commanding view was difficult to find anywhere else.