Restaurant Patrick Guibaud, Dublin, 12/12/2024 (2-Course, 155€ excl. Taxes and
Gratuity)
Restaurant
Patrick Guibaud first opened its door in 1981 and was awarded for the 1st
star in 1988. It was awarded the 2nd star in 1996, which it has
retained ever since. Currently, it is located in the center of Dublin inside
the 5-star Merrion Hotel, a block away from Oscar Wilde Park. It is Ireland’s
only 2-star restaurant.
The atmosphere receives its accolades for its brilliance, especially the dining room with its lofty ceilings and quite a few pieces of paintings and tapestries. One of the tapestries, resembling Picasso style art works, was done by an Irish artist Louis le Brocquy. It was contributed by Merrion Hotel’s owner. A copy #9 of the same tapestry titled “Allegory Ta” was identified and sold at the latest auction at Christie. It is a blessing that PG is located inside the Merrion Hotel where security system is on around the clock to safeguard the high valued art objects.
Co-owner
Patrick Guibaud, semi-retired, visited the restaurant while we were dining
there. Mr. Guibaud is a very talented, astute entrepreneur and restaurateur. He
was not only the chef created most of the signature dishes in the past 40 years,
but also participated in the design and construction of the restaurant throughout
his career. He decorated the dining room with its lofty ceilings, modern
paintings and placed a small distinctive showcase stature on each table. Being
located inside the swanky Merrion Hotel also helps with safeguarding the
expensive art works from theft.
There was a wide range of menus. Our server recommended a la carte two courses at 155€ to be the ideal choice. For the evening, restaurant has offered Lobster Ravioli as a special due to guest’s overwhelming requests for reinstating Lobster Ravioli to the menu. Lobster Ravioli has not been on the menu for a while. We were auspicious to hit the jackpot.
CANAPÉS
Parmesan Gougère
Gougère is French cheese puff
pastry, a baked savory choux pastry made of choux dough mixed with grated cheese
(Gruyère, Comté,
Emmentaler, cheddar, or other semi-firm cheeses). They were tasty, fluffy, light and delightful,
perfect for pre-dinner munching. (19/20)
Salmon Rillette Tart
Mini-tart filled with salmon preserved in butter for 4-10 hours, then slow cooked with spices in oven. It was tender and fresh. Salmon filling was topped with toasted nori and salmon caviar. It was refreshing. (19/20)
AMUSE BOUCHE
Foie Gras Parfait, Peach Espuma, Dried Strawberries
Ravioli of Blue Lobster
This lobster is not ordinary lobster, it was the famous Blue Lobster from Annagasson, County Louth, Ireland. Louth is nicknamed “the Wee County” because it is the smallest county in Ireland. The blue coloration in lobsters is the result of a genetic anomaly. Bright blue lobsters are very rare, occurring 1 in every 2 million. The Blue Lobsters have to strive in the icy cold English Channel water or North Atlantic coast, and grow at slower pace and smaller size with tender and flavorful flesh in slight blue tint. In order to keep all these good characters, the processing procedures had to be strict with high standard. During the shipping, it may require dry ice to maintain certain temperature and the blue tint. Shelling needs to be done in ice in order to keep lobster meat blue. The whole community also has been principled to keep the tradition alive.
The
Blue Lobster meat was wrapped in home-made pasta, topped by a crispy coronet
and a twig of parsley. It looked like a bee hive with many compartments filled with
chunks of lobster when cut open. These chunks of lobster were cooked to
perfection, tender but not tough with adequately spiced ingredients. Lobster
was first poached in coconut juice/cream. Then, lobster, along with some juice/bisque,
was wrapped in the pasta. Timing was
important, otherwise pasta would turn into a soggy ravioli. Sauce was prepared
including some Indian spices, cooked lobster broth and other seafood
condiments. The quality, coloring and texture of the pasta was so smooth, it
probably was ½ of the thickness of the ordinary pasta, however, the diner still
can feel the physique of the home-made pasta. Since there were layers inside
the ravioli, there were generous portion of lobster meats served in the plate.
I appreciated the perfection of this dish so much that I requested for an extra
order. Unfortunately, their kitchen did not allow a 2nd order of
Blue Lobster ravioli. I noticed the sauce with obvious and beautiful orange
tint. It was done by poaching lobster in coconut juice/cream. Orange
color/accent can be extracted out by this simple step. Blue Lobsters are precious
because of their flavors, texture and scarcity. Once it is cooked, its shell
looks like the shell of an ordinary lobster.
The signature
Blue Lobster was pasta perfect, fresh and moist, as a tradition paired with
local produce and flavor, prepared by culinary artists (cooking as an art not
just science). (20/20)
BREAD
Varieties of bread – seaweed, rolls of onion and bacon, rolls of walnut and cranberry and sour dough baguette. Butter had the unusual yellowish luster like Froment du Léon. Quality of bread was superb; they were extra crunchy. Our server informed me the extra crunchiness was accomplished by cold salted water or by placing a pan of water for the 1st 15 minutes of baking. (19/20)
MAINS
Mellow Spiced Castle Dermot Lamb, Potato Croissant, Jalapeno, Avocado
and Kohlrabi
It was beautifully presented including a few detailed prepared vegetables in addition to the center piece lamb.
Croissant
of nori and potatoes slices was crested on top. Layers of treated raw potatoes
was used alternately with nori and rolled into croissant shape. It was the
smallest croissant that I have ever seen. It requires a tweezer and patience to
assemble. Potatoes slices also need to be baked in the oven after being treated
and assembled.
On
the side, there is a small avocado dumpling made of Kohlrabi slice and avocado,
mashed avocado in inner part wrapped by treated Kohlrabi slice in the outer
part. The treatment of Kohlrabi requires dipping with dry ice then patting dry
before baking. Green sauce was made from scallion, jalapeno sauce.
Quality
of the lamb was fine, tender and cooked to the medium. It has been my personal
preference to have a bit of stronger flavoring with lamb. (18/20)
Fillet of Irish Beef and Roast Foie Gras, Madeira and Truffle Jus
A fillet of beef was at the very bottom of the plate, topped by mushroom from Portugal, with Madeira sauce. Mushroom and beef juice gave the sauce a bit of earthy flavor.
Beef,
melt in your mouth, from Shanahans, is farmed the same way as Aberdeen Angus,
was handsomely cooked, lusciously rare with a charred crust on the outside, can
be aged a bit more.
The
sauces, both so different, both so incredibly scrumptious. Our plates were so
clean.
Mashed
potatoes were so smooth and tasty, reminded our previous beloved “Bouley” in
NYC which offered the similar style of mashed potatoes. In addition to the
yummy mashed potatoes, Potatoes Maxine was in the plate. It looked like an
apple tart, these like a roulette. I am not a potato fan; however, I enjoyed
this. It was tasty with slight crunchiness and good flavor.
I
have noticed that every MAINS was covered with a silver plate when bringing the
MAINS to each table. I could recall that the last time I saw it was at the
Chapeau Rouge Restaurant in Dijon, another Michelin 2-star restaurant. I certainly
enjoyed the aroma from the beautifully cooked food the moment when the cover
was lifted. (18/20)
PALETTE CLEANER
Tropical Fruit Espuma, Coconut Tapioca
Coconut Tapioca shaped like an egg yolk covered by tropical fruits (coconut, mango, lemon, lime, passion fruit, pineapple) jelly sitting in coconut juice. It was refreshing and tasty. My palette was ready for the transition from savory to the sweet. However, my taste bud was not quite happy yet! (19/20)
DESERTS
Baba Rhum Flambé
Cake was soft and fresh, served with vanilla ice cream and Tonka Beans. Baba au Rhum flambé prepared at the table was primo. Customer was offered 3 different types of Rum – strong, medium and light. I choose the combination of strong 8-year aged Bacardi and medium 7-year aged Havana Club so that I can walk back to the hotel after dinner. It was delicious and my big sweet teeth were still wagging. (20/20)
COEUR DE GUANAJA CHOCOLATE TART, BOURBON VANILLA ICE CREAM
A thin, crisp part of chocolate topped a layer of chocolate ganache which then topped a chocolate cookie. All these were topped again by Bourbon vanilla ice cream with four corners adorned by gold leaves. It was delicious and flavorful although not as gratifying as Baba. (19/20)
PETIE FOURS
Mince
Pie Macaron
Lemon
and Pineapple Financier
Tart
of Hazelnut Praline with Milk Chocolate Mousse
In addition, at the very end inhouse-made chocolate truffles were offered. When the server opened the box of truffles, you are hit with the incredible scent of high-quality chocolate. Two expertly made truffles was chosen for each guest. They were sensational! (20/20)
I
have read some reviews on Restaurant Patrick Guibard on the subject of being
“pricy” comparing with what in London. PG is the only Michelin 2-star in
Ireland, it is in a monopolistic position on “how much to charge” just like
what Ristorante Quardri does in Venice. However, PG does provide customers with
excellent signature dishes in addition to the gorgeous dining room and
impeccable services. Dining at PG is a formal and total experience, it is best
kept beyond monetary valuation alone. I was so impressed with the Blue Lobster Ravioli;
I personally considered it was delivered better and with higher standard than
what I had in a Michelin 3-star restaurant in London.
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