Acadia, Chicago,
5/10/2017 (5-Course, $115 excl. Taxes & Grat.), American Progressive,
Michelin 2-Star
Acadia
is a Michelin 2-Star restaurant in the south loop of Chicago. Going thru the
list in alphabetical order, it is the 1st Michelin 2-Star that I
came across. Chef Ryan McCaskey focused mainly on American Progressive theme.
The place is elegantly decorated, however, without open or see-thru kitchen.
I
ordered a 5-course tasting menu. I started with Amuse Bouche.
1). Lobster Roll -
Fine quality lobster from Penobscot bay in
Stonington, Maine, served with mayonnaise and chive sandwiched in a bite-size
bread. The cold and clean water of Penobscot bay is the perfect environment for
producing the sweetest lobster.
2). Fried Head
Cheese –
with aioli cream drop on top touched with a sprig of parsley leave.
3). Truffle Cookie - this
cookie dough also had Parmigiano cheese and thyme. It was served like a
sandwich with truffle Bavarian cream in between. It was bite-size, but I would
not mind to have a few more.
4). Beef Heart – Beef heart was
slightly seared and grilled to get the flavor. It was almost raw, served with
ponzu sauce, hoi-shin sauce, chopped peanuts, white onion; adorned with Thai
basil, mint and broccoli leave.
1st
Course – Truffle Croissant
I
noticed the croissant had 2 different colors on the skin, it was made with 2
types of dough and twirled together at the final stage before baking, the
darker color dough was the one with chopped truffle and the lighter color was
the one plain. It was accompanied by egg custard foam (lighter than egg
custard) made of whole egg, vanilla and truffle. I dipped croissant into the
custard foam and could not quite find any better terms to describe the taste
and flavor besides “It was like in heaven”.
2nd
Course – Columbia River Salmon, Fava Bean
Salmon,
from Columbia river, was poached to perfection, tender and medium in the
center. To complement the flavor, the dish also included fresh radish, toasted
granola, tangerine leaves, fresh dill, pickled orange peel, cute pansy flower
and lemon yogurt cream.
3rd
Course – White Asparagus, Iberico Ham, Farm Egg
I
was happy that white asparagus was on the menu again. White asparagus, from
Holland considered the best quality, was served with Iberico Serrano ham from
Spain. Egg from Slaga farm south of Chicago was low-heat poached en sous-vide
to a condition that the egg was barely settled, but not soupy, with a very
pleasant rich taste. In addition, there was Fontina cheese fondue, ham
crumbles, arugula, water crest, red bean sorrel served with truffle
vinaigrette. I loved the taste of this semi-cooked egg yolk, the edge and the
center part were with the same softness and smoothness. Most of the sunny
side-up eggs was a bit harder on the edge than the center.
4th
Course – Stonington Lobster, Ramp Gnochi, Green Goddess
Lobster
was from the same source, Stonington, Maine, as what served in the amuse
bouche. Lobster was poached in butter to keep its flesh tender and juicy. On
the side, there were green gnocchi made of ramp, green asparagus, chervil,
thyme, cream and sour cream, lemon and sorrel interspersed with a few cute
flowers. The quality of lobster was without of doubt, Chef’s cooking technique
also had a lot to do with the luscious taste of this dish.
Red Fife Biscuit,
Pretzel Roll – served
with 3 flavors of butter, yogurt, mushroom and mixed herbs.
Pea Ice Cream,
Japanese Cheesecake, Meringue
For
transition to meat dish. Gently flavored pea ice cream was served with whipped
light cream and pea leaves/ vine tips.
5th
Course – Anderson Farm Lamb, Olive, Peas
Lamb
supplied by Anderson Farm was roasted to medium-rare and served with charred onion,
diced and sautéed potato, peas and strawberries. The inclusion of olive
tapenade made this dish from a good one to an excellent one.
Bloody Mary – with strawberry
sorbet, spiced tomato sauce, celery foam, tomato balls and parmigiano sable. It
was a palette cleanser proceeding the desert. It balanced among many different
flavors and produced a sophisticated taste.
6th
Course – Rhubarb Strudel, Nasturtium
At
the bottom, there was a thin crisp with cashew cake, rhubarb compote and ice
cream place on the crisp. This 2nd layer was then covered by another
layer of crisp which was topped with poached rhubarb pieces, ricotta cheese
cream and nasturtium leaves. Rhubarb was prepared properly without the tarry
taste. It was a good treat for the seasonal desert.
Petit Four – Raspberry White
Chocolate Bon-Bon, Rosemary Olive Cookie, Multi-Milk & Coffee Cream
Macaroon. They were all yummy and cute, complementing with each’s distinctive
taste and flavor.
After
getting off the train at Chinatown station, it took about 10 minutes of walking
to get to Acadia. Nevertheless, the mouthwatering experience of truffle
croissant made the journey worthwhile.
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