Antiqvvm, Porto, Portugal (8-Course, 235€ excl. Taxes and Gratuity)
Antiqvvm,
Porto, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant located in the old Solar do vinho do
Porto, with beautiful and charming views over Douro River. The restaurant
offers two sets of Tasting menus, making the most of the fresh produce,
seasonal trends, classic Portuguese cooking with a hint of contemporary cuisine. Antiqvvm
offers Organic Menu of 8-course 165€ and Sensory Moments Menu of
8-Course 235€. Chef Vitor Matos has attended cooking and pastry courses in
Portugal and Switzerland to acquire the refined skills.
Antiqvvm is synonymous with unique experiences. Is it, let’s find out. It started with
Amuse Bouche
1).Tuna
Tartar and Siberia sturgeon caviar, from Alps. Crusted wonton wrapping was
roasted to add color and crunchiness. Tuna was slightly seasoned; caviar was
properly salty. It was a pleasant and appetizing bite. (19/20)
2).It looked like a mini art project. It looked like fish, but it was not real fish. It tasted like fish regardless of the original ingredient. They were made out of bread, toasted and cut into perfectly shaped fish and then topped with mixed chesses, cream, chives. Lastly, one piece of fish was sprinkled with finely grounded seaweed and the other piece of fish was topped with anchovies and red pepper gel. It was a very successful mouth-watering amalgamation. (20/20)
3).Oyster from Aveiro, N. Portugal with Apple gelatin. Supported by the salt market, fishing and maritime commercial development, Aveiro’s geographical position along the Aveiro river has always helped it to grow.
It was served with multiple types of sauce - apple and celery sauce, chili sauce (dark), Granny Smith (green), fake cucumber caviar made by using syringe and a scoop of butter milk ice cream in the middle. It was a very sophisticated and well-balanced. (19/20)
Bread – Broa de Avintes
It is
dark bread with a long tradition in the northern part of Portugal. It is a dark
brown, very dense bread made with maize and rye flours, with a distinctive and
intense bittersweet flavor. In addition to Broa, olive bread and sunflower
seeds bread were served with seaweed butter, butter with black pepper and
Santosh olive oil.
Sensory Moments Tasting Menu Mains
I.Duck Foie Gras & Rhubarb. Vanilla / Balsamic di Modena / Bolos Lêvedos
Foie
Gras parfait from duck liver with sauce made from 25-year-old balsamic vinegar
and muscadet wine. Sauce made from the 25-year-old balsamic vinegar is a real
treat. Rhubarb, cut horizontally and then diagonally to show the edible and
tender part of the plants was flavored with vanilla and elder flowers. The
cutup rhubarb was adorned exquisitely on top of foie parfait.
In
addition, a yeast cake called Bolos Lêvedos (A moist, fluffy and slightly sweet
Portuguese muffin. It is one of the specialties from Azores) was baked to rise
then sautéed to accompany the Foie. Very few restaurants use 25-year-old
Balsamic vinegar. Using this premium ingredient made this course rich in taste
and flavor but perfectly balanced. (20/20)
II.Violet Prawn & Citrus. Mango / Turmeric / Horseradish
Prawns were cooked in mirin. From the translucent color, one can tell they were more like sashimi grade, served with fresh mango, grapefruit, mango gel and citrus caviar (made by syringe). Sorrel (green), turmeric ice cream and horseradish ice were served along the side. Turmeric ice cream and horseradish ice were the most interesting and unusual usage in this plate. However, they provided both as a palette cleanser and taste enhancer. (20/20)
III.Langoustine & Leek. Noisette butter / Lemon
Baby lobster was tender, succulent and tasty, sprinkled with rice pearls (off-white), served with lemon gel (pale green) on the top. Sauce was made in leek foam with Noisette butter. Since langoustine was not large in size, Chef innovated a non-conventional way of preparation to prevent overcooking. Langoustine was steamed first before torched with butter to give the langoustine perfect tenderness, coloring and well-balanced flavor. (20/20)
IV.Splendid Afonsino & Giant Squid. Bearnaise / White
Asparagus / Salicornia / Marine Plankton
Alfonsino squid, from Azores, like sea bass with tender white flesh. But Alfonsino has beautiful red skin. It was served with Bearnaise sauce (yellow), white asparagus and marine plankton. Plankton were presented in green stick as well as in powder to have the seafood flavor evenly distributed. In addition, giant squid was sliced ultra-thin to make tagliatelle at the bottom of the plate. Squid was fresh and had mildly sticky sweetness. The soft and slightly chewy texture is pleasant, it almost like eating sashimi, a bit more refreshing.
Another
rare item used in this course is salicornia which is a salt substitute derived
from the ocean. Salicornia is a plant-based salt with 50% less sodium than
salt. It's better for your heart while still giving you the same salty taste.
Salicornia is also known as glasswort or sea asparagus, has been used as a
traditional remedy for diarrhea, abdominal pain, constipation and indigestion. I
have been to another worldly renown restaurant Central in Lima on 1/25, Central
has been even more focused on seaweeds business. (20/20)
V. Red Mullet & Oscietra Caviar. Sea Urchin / Cauliflower / Scarlet Shrimp
This is another type of fish with red skin, Afonsino seems to have a brighter red color. Both of them taste deliciously.
In
Portugal, the “scarlet shrimp,” also known as “Carabineros” (meaning “police”
in Portuguese, referring their bright red color), are a large, deep-sea prawn,
also called Cardinal Prawns or Crevette. The sweet flavor of the scarlet shrimp
and delicate texture and the size make it highly sought for as a premium
ingredient. It has got not only bright red shell; it also has got bright red
first layer of flesh.
In this course, scarlet shrimp was made into two different ways of preparation – one was a poached tail; the other was shrimp tartar seasoned with salt and pepper. Sauce was made of seafood broth with shrimp head juice. Roasted cauliflower was puréed and sat next to the shrimp tail. Oscietra Caviar was on top of the mullet filet. Form the appearance, this serving of caviar is from a more matured sturgeon. They were all sumptuously delicious. (20/20)
VI.Sea Bass
& Goa Curry. Ravioli / Citronella
/ Lime Caviar / Sorrel / Coriander
Sea bass served with lime caviar and citrus pop on top. Sorrel and micro flowers were also placed on top for adornment. Hidden gem was underneath the foam made from seafood broth. Hidden gem was the lobster ravioli and a piece of blue lobster (Chef upgraded the type of lobster served to blue lobster which is more exclusive and harder to catch). Goa curry sauce was adopted, it was umami with a lot of taste in the mouth. Goa curry from West Indian is an aromatic tomato and coconut-based sauce, blend curry with spices, garlic, ginger and onion along with fresh tomato, coconut, mango powder or tamarind. It is less spicy and less pungent than the ordinary Indian curry. I wished the preparer of the blue lobster were able to make the cooked blue lobster as tender as what I had in Patrick Guibaud in Dublin. (19/20)
VII.Wagyu &
Smoked Eel. Turnips /
Mushrooms / Macis / Topinambur
Under rib Wagyu A5 is medium-rare, succulent, served with black truffled (from Italy) turnip purée, varieties of wild mushrooms and topinambur (Jerusalem artichoke or sunchoke). Artichoke was native to N. America, but is now cultivated worldwide. It is a root vegetable in the sunflower family, with a mild, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor and rich in prebiotic fiber.
Beef, from Kagoshima in
Southern Japan, was served two ways – one in tartar (in red-white) and one
seared. Filet of beef was accompanied by the unusual smoked eel which was
topped by turnip purée and finely shredded and
roasted onion. After I tasted the smoked eel, I started contemplating the
original source of supply. I inquired my server and was confirmed it was
sourced from Martin Berasategui, San Sebastian, Spain. Chef Berasategui has 12
Michelin stars and has been famous for his signature dish “smoked eel”. Chef in
Antiqvvm is very dedicated in acquiring the very best of ingredients for his
kitchen, he manages to use the best smoked eel.
Kagoshima is the Southernmost
prefecture in Japan. It is renowned for its trio of “black meats,” namely black
pork, black beef ad black chicken. Kagoshima’s A5 Wagyu is renowned for its
intense marbling, offering a decadent melt-in-your-mouth experience. The use of
the word kuro, or black refers to the color of the animals’ skin or feathers,
rather than the meat itself. In addition, the landscape and gardening scene is absolutely
fabulous and exquisite.
At the bottom of the plate, onion foam and demi-glace beef juice were served to enhance the flavor. Demi-glace was rich, concentrated brown sauce made with black truffles, juice and beef fat. Another extraordinary ingredient is Macis which is membrane of nutmeg. First you dry nutmeg for a few months, then crack open the nut and remove (rip) the membrane. That is the membrane of nutmeg. In this course, it was chopped finely and mixed in the sauce and foam. It is elaborate, no detail is spared, and perfectly executed preparation with sumptuous bites for the plate. (20/20)
VIII.Nectarine. Raspberry / Vanilla / Elderflower / Lemongrass
It was presented like a wreath with 4 different themed dessert and edible gold leaves adornment:
Raspberry parfait with
almond cake inside and raspberry gel
Vanilla mousse
Citrus mousse and fruit
nectarine
Elderflower syrup and caviar
It was a light dessert, very refreshing and with taste of each distinctive flavor. (20/20)
Dessert was followed by:
Mignardises
Coffee meringue with Tiramisu foam and gold leaves on top
Tart with caramelized apple
in puff pastry and apple gel
Chocolate with salted
caramel
Passion fruit nectarine
covered with white chocolate and coconut
I am addict to the excellent
petit fours. My favorite was the passion fruit balls (on the very right-hand
side). I could not resist the temptation to request for more. I got one more
bite. But the pastry chef would not share with me the secret of making such a condensed
and delicious passion fruit nectarine.
I had another wonderful
meal. Chef Vitor has done a marvelous job to prepare a creative seasonal
cuisine with emphasis on procuring the best quality ingredient by combining
Portuese dishes with modernity. It is located in a leafy park near the Douro
River. Serene and romantic outdoor views make you feel as if you have escaped
to your own enclave.
Antiqvvm is synonymous with
unique experiences. It sure got its name suitably.