Central, Lima, 1/25/2025, Sol 1630 excl. Taxes and Gratuity

 Central, Lima, 1/25/2025 (13-Course, 1630 Sol, excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Central is a well-guarded fortress located in the Barranco district of Lima. There are signs on the wheeled steel door “Central/Kjolle” indicating we are at the restaurant. Virgilió Martinez is the Executive Chef and his wife Pia León is the current Chef de Cuision and owner of Kjolle, next door. The host stand is right behind the electrical wheeled fence which secured a nice garden.  After a few minutes of walking in the garden, we saw a table with bowls of ingredients on the table signify various regions and altitudes of Peru which is the theme of Central.

We were seated in an area with tables made with black rocks inlaid. They were from Arequipa, each has its unique and elegant design.

When making a reservation, we have to pre-select which experience our party wants to take. Each experience offers dishes from various Peru ecosystem, such as ocean or the mountain. We have chosen Mundo En Desnivel which is a journey thru 13 different elevations of Peru. We began our dinner with the 1^st course on the menu. Each dish was accompanied with a short explanation of its ingredients, where they come from, each course is based on a different elevation within Peru. You eat your way thru below sea level (10 MBSL), to the Amazon (380 MASL), and high up in the Andes (2700 MASL).

I. Black Rocks. 10 MBSL.  Sargassum - Clams - Squid

Our culinary adventure starts 10 meters beneath the ocean’s surface, surrounded by the black rocks. In this underwater world, the Central team source unique marine ingredients like Codium, Yuyo, Sargassum and Sea Lettuce (in the right-hand side of the large tray). Sargassum forms the foundation of our dough, while Sea Lettuce and Codium add a vibrant green to the sponge accompanying razor clams (cured in algae). Donut made of algae (Sargassum, Kelp), baked in oven; With the wonder of molecular gastronomy, sponge made with Sea Lettuce, Codium (on top of algae) and plenty of ultra cold air. Our menu highlights the flavors of the sea. Featuring Barnacles, clams, crab head, with its rich roe and the delicate Yuyo seaweed (in the middle of the large tray). Crab is from Ica, with Yuyo on top. Ica lies on the border of Atacama Desert and has one of the driest climates in the world. I could not imagine the efforts the Central team made to gather all the ingredients in this ecosystem to present such a unique plate. (20/20)

II. Dry Valley. 900 MASL.  Shrimp - Loche Squash - Avocado

In a dry valley at the edge of the mountain chain, the Central team found river shrimps and loche squash, and endemic variety. The shrimp tails were served inside the squash; filled with a cream of the pulp and dover with a powder made with the ashes of the loche husk. On the side, an avocado dice with an avocado leaf dust.

Squash is in orange color; avocado is covered by ashes of avocado leaves and shrimp fossil is served with potato powder. Serving shrimp inside the mashed squash gives shrimp extra tenderness and ashes of avocado leaves and loche husk render penetrating fresh veg taste. (20/20)

III. Savannah. 380 MASL.  Aguaje - Doncella Fish - Hibiscuis

Continuing the journey in the Savannah, where the Central team discover the unique Aguaje fruit. A dual-textured creation is presented: one with its natural casing, the other a cloud-like mass of pulp, enhanced with Doncella fish filet cured in Hibiscus and served with syrup. The plate is adorned with a yacon-Mosaic, finished with a reduction of Yacon juice infused with beeswax. To complete this, Amazonian shrimp is accompanied by a subtle shrimp butter (orange, not in its ordinary form) and the vibrant green of sacha cilantro.

Syrup reduction of Yucon, a sweet root vegetable, is served on the side on a stone plate. (18/20)

IV. Extrema Altitude. 4200 MASL. Corn - Kiwicha - Kunuka

Ascending to extreme heights with corn and native grains, the Central team present five varieties of corns, including Choglo, Cancha, Chulpi, Kculli, and white corn. Sweet potato leaves (green leaves) and sweet potato from the garden and high-altitude Kiwicha (orange balls) are infused with a reduction of these corns. Add Cushuro, an algae harvested from high-altitude (black balls) lagoons at over 4000 meters above sea level. Served with corn broth. (18/20)   

V. Warm Sea Current. 15 MBSL. Murike Grouper – Razor Clams – Vongole

In the northern waters, the Central team find the succulent Mero Murike. It is served crispy with a hot vongole broth, infused with Aji Limo and Razor Clams dyed with Spinelli algae into blue color. Accompanied by lobster and smoked Sea Lettuce, finished with an algae gel. Served with Vongoli and razor clams’ broth.  

Large container is displayed with Grouper with Sea Lettuce and seaweed powder. (20/20)

VI. Rainforest Connection. 148 MASL. Cecina – Arapaima – Cassava

From the Andes to the Amazon, the Central team present the Paiche. Its tail is coated in a bone broth sauce with crispy Mishkina (pepper from Amazon) and Tucupi. Finished with a yuca leaf juice. Served alongside are leaves, native tomatoes, yacon, cured paiche belly and a cold preparation of paiche bones and fat. Fermented casava combined with mishkina made the little black balls taste like seafood. (20/20)

VII. Blue-Green Ocean. 0 MASL. Scallop – Yuyo Seaweed – Cucumber

The Central team return to the ocean floor where the freshest catch of the day is harvested. Selection includes a variety of textures and flavors featuring blue clams with spiraling, Ica scallops, Ica sea urchin and shrimps, served in sashimi style. The shells of what we eat are in display in the large tray. Yuyo and other seaweeds made black color balls resembling squid ink while shrimp made orange balls. The Central team have tried multiple ways of making black balls. The final touch on this presentation is the olluco, a family of potato, with red skin, made the decoration. (20/20)

VIII. Sea Brain Algae. 5 MBSL. Octopus – Sea Lettuce – Codium

The Central team dive into octopus’s ecosystem beneath the sea and its coral. This octopus is concentrated and dried with Codium, salt, and sea lettuce. A broth was prepared to cook it and cut it into pieces. Atop the dish, you’ll find textures created with algae that represent the moment the octopus hides beneath its coral. On the side a shot with octopus and sea lettuce stock. The presentation of this course designated three colors of coverings used: orange color - paprika, green - sea lettuce, brown -pepper+yuyo. (19/20)

IX. Amazonian Water. 180 MASL. Pacu – Bahuja – Beef

The Central team ascend 180 meters to Amazonian waters. Beef cheek is cured with Coca leaves accompanied by Sachapapa cream and strings with eff yolk. The Pacu, a wild river fish, is known to wait for fruits to fall from trees. The Central team wrap the fish and elements of its ecosystem, such as watermelon, cocona, Amazonian nut (shredded), and coca leaf powder, in a piece of lettuce. Feel free to use your hands for the lettuce and a spoon for the beef. (19/20)

X. Andean Forest. 2700 MASL. Pork Jowl – OCA – Callampa

At an elevation of 2700 meters in the Andean Forest, the Central team encounter a highland pig, of which only the jowl is used. The dishes feature the jowl paired with tubers and a callampa mushroom net. A platter showcases four distinct cuts and cooking methods of the same jowl. The high quality of the Jowl is better than my favorite Iberian pig. It melted in my mouth; the flavor and taste of the pork are the best that I ever had. 

Oca Ollaco in pink, yellow, purple and regular potatoes served under the Collampa mushroom net. Oca Olluca are root vegetables, has a mildly sweet flavor and slightly lemony taste often likened to a turnip.  (20/20) 

XI. Sacred Valley. 2800 MASL. Chirimoya – Andean Verbena – Black Maca Root

Chirimoya is a tropical fruit with a creamy texture and a strong, sweet flavor, has rough green skin, soft white flesh and large black seeds. It is also known as custard apple or sugar apple. Andean Verbena is in green color and Black maca root are in brown color. (19/20)

XII. Moray. 3600 MASL. Cabuya - Muña Leaf - Yacon

 

In the Sacred Valley and Moray, the Central team seek the convergence of two ecosystems that share the Cabuya, a South American cactus. The fibre in its leaves, known as fique, are used in making ropes. Within a beeswax vessel, you will find chirimoya, crispy lemon verbena, and black maca, alongside with Muña, a reduction of Cabuya juices, and a slice of Yacon. (19/20)

XIII. Cacao Chuncho. 1800 MASL. Mucilage – Seed Husk

This dish features Chuncho Cacao from Quillabamba, Cusco, presented in its entirety. A departure from traditional chocolate making. The cacao bean is explored in its entirety: a creamy pulp from the shell, a gelled mucilage, two forms made with the pulp and the fresh seeds over a cream made also with seeds. And nibs in two textures. A cacao sponge topped with cacao rocks completes the experience. Explore each element individually or combine them on the plate which features and air of the pulp and cream of the leaves and seeds. (19/20)

According to the latest Michelin awards in 2023, the world's #1 restaurant is Central in Lima, Peru. However, it has not been awarded any Michelin stars because Michelin doesn't publish a guidebook for Peru.

The presentation at Central is equally as important as the flavor and taste, or even more sometimes. I had seen something like it slightly in Noma, Copenhagen 12 years ago. Noma had a bit of more novelty-centered at the early stage. Central used leaves, seaweeds, volcano rocks, even Piranha head all in a unique way. To ensure the reliable source and quality of supply can be a daunting and costly job. I have never experienced plating quite like this. Make sure you listen carefully when you are presented each course, since you may gnaw away at a design component.