Alma, Lisbon, 3/11/2025 (6-course, 120€ excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Alma, Lisbon, 3/11/2025 (6-Course, 120€ excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Alma Lisbon, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant located in Chiado district of Lisbon. It offers 2 sets of Tasting menus, “Alma Classics with Chef Henrique’s Sá Pessoa’s signature dishes” and “Costa a Costa focusing on Portuguese seafood”, both priced at 120€ per person and including 6 courses. In addition, a la carte is available. Since we had too many substitute requests in the Tasting menu, we were asked to comprise our customized Tasting menu from a la carte. It started with Amuse Bouche.

Amuse Bouche

Nutty Cannelloni – Slightly seasoned tuna tartar is wrapped in Nori seaweed, therefore named cannelloni. It is topped with fried capers and finger lime citric. Nori roll was gently fried in warm oil like making cannelloni. It demands high precision to make the crispiness of the nori roll. It was very appetizing.

Grilled Red Pepper – Sliced red peppers were coated in squid ink tempura, fried and served with purée of grilled red pepper at the bottom of the bowl and smoked vinegar jell on top.

Cracker of Pork – The Algarve, Portugal’s southernmost region, is known for its beaches, golf resorts and food. The “Frango a Guia”, also known as “Piri Piri Chicken”, is one of the best-known dishes of traditional Algarve food. In general, the central Portugal region consumes more pork, southern region consumes more chicken and northern region consumes more pork to make this dish. Piri Piri sauce includes chiles, lemon, pepper, garlic, salt, onion, bay leaves, vinegar and oil, chicken is marinated for at least 4 hours before cooking. The final product has dehydrated shredded meat on the top and crispy pork skin at the bottom.

To make Chef’s Cracker of Pork will require a lot of processes. It started with pressure cooker, French stop, dehydration in low humidity @70 degree for 1-2 days. Then mix dehydrated pork belly with honey and dehydrated rosemary. Served with chilly mayo and Togarashi (= chili pepper) sauce. It sure consumes you a lot of energy to finish.

Tartlet of Beet Root – Base of this cute tartlet is made of beet. I have seen variation of beet tartlet; they are all very pleasant. Under the glaze, pasteurized Portugal goat cheese, beet root chutney, balsamic vinegar gel, grated dark chocolate, and grounded pine nut (with macerated pine nut) were layered. It was very creative to use macerated pine nut to prevent the taste of over-rich pine nut and use balsamic vinegar to balance the acidity. (20/20)

Bread

The chef has a bread recipe which he assigned to another chef to bake daily near by the Alma premises. The recipe requires an 8-year-old sour dough, 36 hours of fermentation of rye flour.

Bread served warm accompanied by whipped smoked butter (by apple wood spleen and cherry wood spleen) topped with salt flakes. Premium Distintus Olive served along the side is from Portugal. Bread has excellent quality, smooth and tasty. I have requested our special menu be served according to my preference.

I. Foie Gras. Apple, Granola, Beetroot, Coffee

Foie Gras of duck liver is from central France. Included in the plate are no sugar cereal, corn flack honey cinnamon, crumbled almond, pistachio cream (in green color), pickled and glazed Granny Smith apple, white wine vinegar, and slices of coffee sponge cake. Cooking was done in Sous Vide and coffee and coca were served in foam. Pickled apple and white wine vinegar kept the flavor and taste in balance. (19/20)

II.Scarlet Shrimp. Roasted Leek, Corn, Almond Emulsion, Orange

Baby leeks are rolled inside of large leaves (like art work), cooked in Sous Vide and roasted, taste half-raw almost like melt in your mouth, with pungent flavor. Corn purée is from grilled corn with Noisette butter and almond emulsion.

Orange cream is made by orange from Algarve in south Portugal. Almond butter cream is made with juice of head of shrimp. Juice from the head of shrimp is very umami and probably is the tastiest part of shrimp. Chef has made great efforts in enhancing the flavor and taste from every part of ingredient.

In Portugal, the “scarlet shrimp,” also known as “Carabineros” (meaning “police” in Portuguese, referring their bright red color), are a large, deep-sea prawn, also called Cardinal Prawns or Crevette. The sweet flavor of the scarlet shrimp and delicate texture and the size make it highly sought for as a premium ingredient. It has got not only bright red shell; it also has got bright red first layer of flesh. (20/20)

III. Stuffed Squid. Flavored Broth, Sun-dried Tomato

It is different from the ordinary stuffed squid; it is ultra-thin sliced squid covering some treasures underneath. It was brought to the table without sauce and then served with sauce. The treasures under the squid tagliatelle are chopped sun-dried tomato, chorizo black sausage with squid ink, onion, garlic. Served along with another umami flavored sauce made with squid stock, Katsuobushi (fermented, dried and smoked) tuna flake and parsley oil. (20/20)

IV. Monk Fish and Lobster Rice. Tomato and Coriander

Monk fish and blue lobster are from water channel between southern part of Portugal and northern part of Africa, close to Ceuta which at present time is an autonomous of Spain and has been a lookout for the Strait of Gibraltar since ancient time.

Lavagante, lobster in Portuguese, and monk fish are cooked Sous Vide, with salt, pepper, olive oil and thyme in bag. Chef must be a true master of cooking monk fish and blue lobster; the texture and flavor are the best that I have ever had. This course is served with Collagen cream made of coriander, broth of monk fish, tomato, fish liver purée, Kalamansi and coriander gelee. Carolina rice is from Ribategoo River valley, the region contains some of the nation’s richest agricultural land. Rice is cooked with seafood broth, yummy but not heavy. This course is so sumptuous, perfectly seasoned and well balanced. (20/20)

V. Suckling Pig Confit. Turnip Top Purée, Pickled Onion, Black Pepper Jus

Suckling pigs are usually roasted in wooden oven, ideally for those weighed 5-8 kilos with enough fat and still tender. It requires to marinate in Sous Vide bag for 36 hours followed by roasting 36 hours at 75 degrees till tender. During the cooking process, it requires to use confit juice to baste port belly regularly. To further enhance the flavor, one can also baste olive oil and thyme on pork belly. Once the cooking process is done, pork belly should be covered by a heavy stone or board with skin side at the bottom. The almost complete piece can then be stored aside until customer ready to order it. 

Pig is served with turnip and turnip leaves purée, confit juice and pickled onion. It is a true pleasure to hear the noise of biting on the crunchy pig skins. (20/20)

VI. Chocolate “Bomb”. Salted Caramel, Hazelnut Sorbet

It is a chocolate-themed multi-layered dessert of various forms. On the very exterior side is a dark chocolate glazed bomb covering a layer of chocolate mousse, with almond salted caramelized biscuit at the bottom. On the top of the cake is a twill for adornment along with Hazelnut sorbet, chocolate cream, hazelnut cream and toasted hazelnut. Chocolate is always welcome at the end of a meal. Besides the main dessert, there are petit fours. (19/20)

White Chocolate Puffed Rice

Black Pepper Salted Chocolate

Salty Pop Corn

Cream Custard Tart with Fennel and Anise

We were quite happy with the meal. Chef Henrique has gained his cooking techniques and expertise from all over the world, he has worked in gourmet temples like El Celler de Can Roca (in Gerona, Spain), which has been my favorite in the world. Alma was opened in 2009, closed in 2014, reopened in 2015, sleek and relaxed. Alma means “Soul” in Portuguese. At Alma, Chef Henrique accomplished a soulful cuisine of his international experience, his contemporary international flavor, his creativity with Portuguese roots. As what he defined of his cuisine: “A tasteful cuisine, refined taste, perfect technique and excellent products.”

 

ved according to my preference. 

Central, Lima, Peru, 1/25/2025, Sol 1630 excl. Taxes and Gratuity

 Central, Lima, Peru, 1/25/2025 (13-Course, 1630 Sol, excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Central, the #1 restaurant on the latest San Pellegrino list, is a well-guarded fortress located in the Barranco district of Lima. There are signs on the wheeled steel door “Central/Kjolle” indicating we are at the restaurant. Virgilió Martinez is the Executive Chef and his wife Pia León is the current Chef de Cuision and owner of Kjolle, next door. The host stand is right behind the electrical wheeled fence which secured a nice garden.  After a few minutes of walking in the garden, we saw a table with bowls of ingredients on the table signify various regions and altitudes of Peru which is the theme of Central.

We were seated in an area with tables made with black rocks inlaid. They were from Arequipa, each has its unique and elegant design.

When making a reservation, we have to pre-select which experience our party wants to take. Each experience offers dishes from various Peru ecosystem, such as ocean or the mountain. We have chosen Mundo En Desnivel which is a journey thru 13 different elevations of Peru. We began our dinner with the 1^st course on the menu. Each dish was accompanied with a short explanation of its ingredients, where they come from, each course is based on a different elevation within Peru. You eat your way thru below sea level (10 MBSL), to the Amazon (380 MASL), and high up in the Andes (2700 MASL).

I. Black Rocks. 10 MBSL.  Sargassum - Clams - Squid

Our culinary adventure starts 10 meters beneath the ocean’s surface, surrounded by the black rocks. In this underwater world, the Central team source unique marine ingredients like Codium, Yuyo, Sargassum and Sea Lettuce (in the right-hand side of the large tray). Sargassum forms the foundation of our dough, while Sea Lettuce and Codium add a vibrant green to the sponge accompanying razor clams (cured in algae). Donut made of algae (Sargassum, Kelp), baked in oven; With the wonder of molecular gastronomy, sponge made with Sea Lettuce, Codium (on top of algae) and plenty of ultra cold air. Our menu highlights the flavors of the sea. Featuring Barnacles, clams, crab head, with its rich roe and the delicate Yuyo seaweed (in the middle of the large tray). Crab is from Ica, with Yuyo on top. Ica lies on the border of Atacama Desert and has one of the driest climates in the world. I could not imagine the efforts the Central team made to gather all the ingredients in this ecosystem to present such a unique plate. (20/20)

II. Dry Valley. 900 MASL.  Shrimp - Loche Squash - Avocado

In a dry valley at the edge of the mountain chain, the Central team found river shrimps and loche squash, and endemic variety. The shrimp tails were served inside the squash; filled with a cream of the pulp and dover with a powder made with the ashes of the loche husk. On the side, an avocado dice with an avocado leaf dust.

Squash is in orange color; avocado is covered by ashes of avocado leaves and shrimp fossil is served with potato powder. Serving shrimp inside the mashed squash gives shrimp extra tenderness and ashes of avocado leaves and loche husk render penetrating fresh veg taste. (20/20)

III. Savannah. 380 MASL.  Aguaje - Doncella Fish - Hibiscuis

Continuing the journey in the Savannah, where the Central team discover the unique Aguaje fruit. A dual-textured creation is presented: one with its natural casing, the other a cloud-like mass of pulp, enhanced with Doncella fish filet cured in Hibiscus and served with syrup. The plate is adorned with a yacon-Mosaic, finished with a reduction of Yacon juice infused with beeswax. To complete this, Amazonian shrimp is accompanied by a subtle shrimp butter (orange, not in its ordinary form) and the vibrant green of sacha cilantro.

Syrup reduction of Yucon, a sweet root vegetable, is served on the side on a stone plate. (18/20)

IV. Extrema Altitude. 4200 MASL. Corn - Kiwicha - Kunuka

Ascending to extreme heights with corn and native grains, the Central team present five varieties of corns, including Choglo, Cancha, Chulpi, Kculli, and white corn. Sweet potato leaves (green leaves) and sweet potato from the garden and high-altitude Kiwicha (orange balls) are infused with a reduction of these corns. Add Cushuro, an algae harvested from high-altitude (black balls) lagoons at over 4000 meters above sea level. Served with corn broth. (18/20)   

V. Warm Sea Current. 15 MBSL. Murike Grouper – Razor Clams – Vongole

In the northern waters, the Central team find the succulent Mero Murike. It is served crispy with a hot vongole broth, infused with Aji Limo and Razor Clams dyed with Spinelli algae into blue color. Accompanied by lobster and smoked Sea Lettuce, finished with an algae gel. Served with Vongoli and razor clams’ broth.  

Large container is displayed with Grouper with Sea Lettuce and seaweed powder. (20/20)

VI. Rainforest Connection. 148 MASL. Cecina – Arapaima – Cassava

From the Andes to the Amazon, the Central team present the Paiche. Its tail is coated in a bone broth sauce with crispy Mishkina (pepper from Amazon) and Tucupi. Finished with a yuca leaf juice. Served alongside are leaves, native tomatoes, yacon, cured paiche belly and a cold preparation of paiche bones and fat. Fermented casava combined with mishkina made the little black balls taste like seafood. (20/20)

VII. Blue-Green Ocean. 0 MASL. Scallop – Yuyo Seaweed – Cucumber

The Central team return to the ocean floor where the freshest catch of the day is harvested. Selection includes a variety of textures and flavors featuring blue clams with spiraling, Ica scallops, Ica sea urchin and shrimps, served in sashimi style. The shells of what we eat are in display in the large tray. Yuyo and other seaweeds made black color balls resembling squid ink while shrimp made orange balls. The Central team have tried multiple ways of making black balls. The final touch on this presentation is the olluco, a family of potato, with red skin, made the decoration. (20/20)

VIII. Sea Brain Algae. 5 MBSL. Octopus – Sea Lettuce – Codium

The Central team dive into octopus’s ecosystem beneath the sea and its coral. This octopus is concentrated and dried with Codium, salt, and sea lettuce. A broth was prepared to cook it and cut it into pieces. Atop the dish, you’ll find textures created with algae that represent the moment the octopus hides beneath its coral. On the side a shot with octopus and sea lettuce stock. The presentation of this course designated three colors of coverings used: orange color - paprika, green - sea lettuce, brown -pepper+yuyo. (19/20)

IX. Amazonian Water. 180 MASL. Pacu – Bahuja – Beef

The Central team ascend 180 meters to Amazonian waters. Beef cheek is cured with Coca leaves accompanied by Sachapapa cream and strings with eff yolk. The Pacu, a wild river fish, is known to wait for fruits to fall from trees. The Central team wrap the fish and elements of its ecosystem, such as watermelon, cocona, Amazonian nut (shredded), and coca leaf powder, in a piece of lettuce. Feel free to use your hands for the lettuce and a spoon for the beef. (19/20)

X. Andean Forest. 2700 MASL. Pork Jowl – OCA – Callampa

At an elevation of 2700 meters in the Andean Forest, the Central team encounter a highland pig, of which only the jowl is used. The dishes feature the jowl paired with tubers and a callampa mushroom net. A platter showcases four distinct cuts and cooking methods of the same jowl. The high quality of the Jowl is better than my favorite Iberian pig. It melted in my mouth; the flavor and taste of the pork are the best that I ever had. 

Oca Ollaco in pink, yellow, purple and regular potatoes served under the Collampa mushroom net. Oca Olluca are root vegetables, has a mildly sweet flavor and slightly lemony taste often likened to a turnip.  (20/20) 

XI. Sacred Valley. 2800 MASL. Chirimoya – Andean Verbena – Black Maca Root

Chirimoya is a tropical fruit with a creamy texture and a strong, sweet flavor, has rough green skin, soft white flesh and large black seeds. It is also known as custard apple or sugar apple. Andean Verbena is in green color and Black maca root are in brown color. (19/20)

XII. Moray. 3600 MASL. Cabuya - Muña Leaf - Yacon

 

In the Sacred Valley and Moray, the Central team seek the convergence of two ecosystems that share the Cabuya, a South American cactus. The fibre in its leaves, known as fique, are used in making ropes. Within a beeswax vessel, you will find chirimoya, crispy lemon verbena, and black maca, alongside with Muña, a reduction of Cabuya juices, and a slice of Yacon. (19/20)

XIII. Cacao Chuncho. 1800 MASL. Mucilage – Seed Husk

This dish features Chuncho Cacao from Quillabamba, Cusco, presented in its entirety. A departure from traditional chocolate making. The cacao bean is explored in its entirety: a creamy pulp from the shell, a gelled mucilage, two forms made with the pulp and the fresh seeds over a cream made also with seeds. And nibs in two textures. A cacao sponge topped with cacao rocks completes the experience. Explore each element individually or combine them on the plate which features and air of the pulp and cream of the leaves and seeds. (19/20)

According to the latest Michelin awards in 2023, the world's #1 restaurant is Central in Lima, Peru. However, it has not been awarded any Michelin stars because Michelin doesn't publish a guidebook for Peru.

The presentation at Central is equally as important as the flavor and taste, or even more sometimes. I had seen something like it slightly in Noma, Copenhagen 12 years ago. Noma had a bit of more novelty-centered at the early stage. Central used leaves, seaweeds, volcano rocks, even Piranha head all in a unique way. To ensure the reliable source and quality of supply can be a daunting and costly job. I have never experienced plating quite like this. Make sure you listen carefully when you are presented each course, since you may gnaw away at a design component.