Antiqvvm, Porto, Portugal, 3/14/2025 (8-Course, 235€ excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Antiqvvm, Porto, Portugal (8-Course, 235€ excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Antiqvvm, Porto, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant located in the old Solar do vinho do Porto, with beautiful and charming views over Douro River. The restaurant offers two sets of Tasting menus, making the most of the fresh produce, seasonal trends, classic Portuguese cooking with a hint of contemporary cuisine. Antiqvvm offers Organic Menu of 8-course 165€ and Sensory Moments Menu of 8-Course 235€. Chef Vitor Matos has attended cooking and pastry courses in Portugal and Switzerland to acquire the refined skills.

Antiqvvm is synonymous with unique experiences. Is it, let’s find out. It started with

Amuse Bouche

1).Tuna Tartar and Siberia sturgeon caviar, from Alps. Crusted wonton wrapping was roasted to add color and crunchiness. Tuna was slightly seasoned; caviar was properly salty. It was a pleasant and appetizing bite. (19/20)

2).It looked like a mini art project. It looked like fish, but it was not real fish. It tasted like fish regardless of the original ingredient. They were made out of bread, toasted and cut into perfectly shaped fish and then topped with mixed chesses, cream, chives. Lastly, one piece of fish was sprinkled with finely grounded seaweed and the other piece of fish was topped with anchovies and red pepper gel. It was a very successful mouth-watering amalgamation. (20/20)

3).Oyster from Aveiro, N. Portugal with Apple gelatin. Supported by the salt market, fishing and maritime commercial development, Aveiro’s geographical position along the Aveiro river has always helped it to grow. 

It was served with multiple types of sauce - apple and celery sauce, chili sauce (dark), Granny Smith (green), fake cucumber caviar made by using syringe and a scoop of butter milk ice cream in the middle. It was a very sophisticated and well-balanced. (19/20)

Bread – Broa de Avintes

It is dark bread with a long tradition in the northern part of Portugal. It is a dark brown, very dense bread made with maize and rye flours, with a distinctive and intense bittersweet flavor. In addition to Broa, olive bread and sunflower seeds bread were served with seaweed butter, butter with black pepper and Santosh olive oil.

Sensory Moments Tasting Menu Mains

I.Duck Foie Gras & Rhubarb. Vanilla / Balsamic di Modena / Bolos Lêvedos

Foie Gras parfait from duck liver with sauce made from 25-year-old balsamic vinegar and muscadet wine. Sauce made from the 25-year-old balsamic vinegar is a real treat. Rhubarb, cut horizontally and then diagonally to show the edible and tender part of the plants was flavored with vanilla and elder flowers. The cutup rhubarb was adorned exquisitely on top of foie parfait.

In addition, a yeast cake called Bolos Lêvedos (A moist, fluffy and slightly sweet Portuguese muffin. It is one of the specialties from Azores) was baked to rise then sautéed to accompany the Foie. Very few restaurants use 25-year-old Balsamic vinegar. Using this premium ingredient made this course rich in taste and flavor but perfectly balanced. (20/20)

II.Violet Prawn & Citrus. Mango / Turmeric / Horseradish

Prawns were cooked in mirin. From the translucent color, one can tell they were more like sashimi grade, served with fresh mango, grapefruit, mango gel and citrus caviar (made by syringe). Sorrel (green), turmeric ice cream and horseradish ice were served along the side. Turmeric ice cream and horseradish ice were the most interesting and unusual usage in this plate. However, they provided both as a palette cleanser and taste enhancer. (20/20)

III.Langoustine & Leek. Noisette butter / Lemon

Baby lobster was tender, succulent and tasty, sprinkled with rice pearls (off-white), served with lemon gel (pale green) on the top. Sauce was made in leek foam with Noisette butter. Since langoustine was not large in size, Chef innovated a non-conventional way of preparation to prevent overcooking. Langoustine was steamed first before torched with butter to give the langoustine perfect tenderness, coloring and well-balanced flavor. (20/20)

IV.Splendid Afonsino & Giant Squid. Bearnaise / White Asparagus / Salicornia / Marine Plankton

Alfonsino squid, from Azores, like sea bass with tender white flesh. But Alfonsino has beautiful red skin. It was served with Bearnaise sauce (yellow), white asparagus and marine plankton. Plankton were presented in green stick as well as in powder to have the seafood flavor evenly distributed. In addition, giant squid was sliced ultra-thin to make tagliatelle at the bottom of the plate. Squid was fresh and had mildly sticky sweetness. The soft and slightly chewy texture is pleasant, it almost like eating sashimi, a bit more refreshing.

Another rare item used in this course is salicornia which is a salt substitute derived from the ocean. Salicornia is a plant-based salt with 50% less sodium than salt. It's better for your heart while still giving you the same salty taste. Salicornia is also known as glasswort or sea asparagus, has been used as a traditional remedy for diarrhea, abdominal pain, constipation and indigestion. I have been to another worldly renown restaurant Central in Lima on 1/25, Central has been even more focused on seaweeds business. (20/20)

V. Red Mullet & Oscietra Caviar. Sea Urchin / Cauliflower / Scarlet Shrimp

This is another type of fish with red skin, Afonsino seems to have a brighter red color. Both of them taste deliciously.

In Portugal, the “scarlet shrimp,” also known as “Carabineros” (meaning “police” in Portuguese, referring their bright red color), are a large, deep-sea prawn, also called Cardinal Prawns or Crevette. The sweet flavor of the scarlet shrimp and delicate texture and the size make it highly sought for as a premium ingredient. It has got not only bright red shell; it also has got bright red first layer of flesh.

In this course, scarlet shrimp was made into two different ways of preparation – one was a poached tail; the other was shrimp tartar seasoned with salt and pepper. Sauce was made of seafood broth with shrimp head juice. Roasted cauliflower was puréed and sat next to the shrimp tail. Oscietra Caviar was on top of the mullet filet. Form the appearance, this serving of caviar is from a more matured sturgeon. They were all sumptuously delicious. (20/20)

VI.Sea Bass & Goa Curry. Ravioli / Citronella / Lime Caviar / Sorrel / Coriander

Sea bass served with lime caviar and citrus pop on top. Sorrel and micro flowers were also placed on top for adornment. Hidden gem was underneath the foam made from seafood broth. Hidden gem was the lobster ravioli and a piece of blue lobster (Chef upgraded the type of lobster served to blue lobster which is more exclusive and harder to catch). Goa curry sauce was adopted, it was umami with a lot of taste in the mouth. Goa curry from West Indian is an aromatic tomato and coconut-based sauce, blend curry with spices, garlic, ginger and onion along with fresh tomato, coconut, mango powder or tamarind. It is less spicy and less pungent than the ordinary Indian curry. I wished the preparer of the blue lobster were able to make the cooked blue lobster as tender as what I had in Patrick Guibaud in Dublin. (19/20)

VII.Wagyu & Smoked Eel. Turnips / Mushrooms / Macis / Topinambur

Under rib Wagyu A5 is medium-rare, succulent, served with black truffled (from Italy) turnip purée, varieties of wild mushrooms and topinambur (Jerusalem artichoke or sunchoke). Artichoke was native to N. America, but is now cultivated worldwide. It is a root vegetable in the sunflower family, with a mild, earthy, and slightly sweet flavor and rich in prebiotic fiber.

Beef, from Kagoshima in Southern Japan, was served two ways – one in tartar (in red-white) and one seared. Filet of beef was accompanied by the unusual smoked eel which was topped by turnip purée and finely shredded and roasted onion. After I tasted the smoked eel, I started contemplating the original source of supply. I inquired my server and was confirmed it was sourced from Martin Berasategui, San Sebastian, Spain. Chef Berasategui has 12 Michelin stars and has been famous for his signature dish “smoked eel”. Chef in Antiqvvm is very dedicated in acquiring the very best of ingredients for his kitchen, he manages to use the best smoked eel.

Kagoshima is the Southernmost prefecture in Japan. It is renowned for its trio of “black meats,” namely black pork, black beef ad black chicken. Kagoshima’s A5 Wagyu is renowned for its intense marbling, offering a decadent melt-in-your-mouth experience. The use of the word kuro, or black refers to the color of the animals’ skin or feathers, rather than the meat itself. In addition, the landscape and gardening scene is absolutely fabulous and exquisite.

At the bottom of the plate, onion foam and demi-glace beef juice were served to enhance the flavor. Demi-glace was rich, concentrated brown sauce made with black truffles, juice and beef fat. Another extraordinary ingredient is Macis which is membrane of nutmeg. First you dry nutmeg for a few months, then crack open the nut and remove (rip) the membrane. That is the membrane of nutmeg. In this course, it was chopped finely and mixed in the sauce and foam. It is elaborate, no detail is spared, and perfectly executed preparation with sumptuous bites for the plate. (20/20)

VIII.Nectarine. Raspberry / Vanilla / Elderflower / Lemongrass

It was presented like a wreath with 4 different themed dessert and edible gold leaves adornment:

Raspberry parfait with almond cake inside and raspberry gel

Vanilla mousse

Citrus mousse and fruit nectarine

Elderflower syrup and caviar

It was a light dessert, very refreshing and with taste of each distinctive flavor. (20/20)

Dessert was followed by:

Mignardises

Coffee meringue with Tiramisu foam and gold leaves on top

Tart with caramelized apple in puff pastry and apple gel

Chocolate with salted caramel

Passion fruit nectarine covered with white chocolate and coconut

I am addict to the excellent petit fours. My favorite was the passion fruit balls (on the very right-hand side). I could not resist the temptation to request for more. I got one more bite. But the pastry chef would not share with me the secret of making such a condensed and delicious passion fruit nectarine.

I had another wonderful meal. Chef Vitor has done a marvelous job to prepare a creative seasonal cuisine with emphasis on procuring the best quality ingredient by combining Portuese dishes with modernity. It is located in a leafy park near the Douro River. Serene and romantic outdoor views make you feel as if you have escaped to your own enclave.

Antiqvvm is synonymous with unique experiences. It sure got its name suitably.

 

 

Alma, Lisbon, 3/11/2025 (6-course, 120€ excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Alma, Lisbon, 3/11/2025 (6-Course, 120€ excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Alma Lisbon, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant located in Chiado district of Lisbon. It offers 2 sets of Tasting menus, “Alma Classics with Chef Henrique’s Sá Pessoa’s signature dishes” and “Costa a Costa focusing on Portuguese seafood”, both priced at 120€ per person and including 6 courses. In addition, a la carte is available. Since we had too many substitute requests in the Tasting menu, we were asked to comprise our customized Tasting menu from a la carte. It started with Amuse Bouche.

Amuse Bouche

Nutty Cannelloni – Slightly seasoned tuna tartar is wrapped in Nori seaweed, therefore named cannelloni. It is topped with fried capers and finger lime citric. Nori roll was gently fried in warm oil like making cannelloni. It demands high precision to make the crispiness of the nori roll. It was very appetizing. (20/20)

Grilled Red Pepper – Sliced red peppers were coated in squid ink tempura, fried and served with purée of grilled red pepper at the bottom of the bowl and smoked vinegar jell on top. (19/20)

Cracker of Pork – The Algarve, Portugal’s southernmost region, is known for its beaches, golf resorts and food. The “Frango a Guia”, also known as “Piri Piri Chicken”, is one of the best-known dishes of traditional Algarve food. In general, the central Portugal region consumes more pork, southern region consumes more chicken and northern region consumes more pork to make this dish. Piri Piri sauce includes chiles, lemon, pepper, garlic, salt, onion, bay leaves, vinegar and oil, chicken is marinated for at least 4 hours before cooking. The final product has dehydrated shredded meat on the top and crispy pork skin at the bottom. (19/20)

To make Chef’s Cracker of Pork will require a lot of processes. It started with pressure cooker, French stop, dehydration in low humidity @70 degree for 1-2 days. Then mix dehydrated pork belly with honey and dehydrated rosemary. Served with chilly mayo and Togarashi (= chili pepper) sauce. It sure consumes you a lot of energy to finish.

Tartlet of Beet Root – Base of this cute tartlet is made of beet. I have seen variation of beet tartlet; they are all very pleasant. Under the glaze, pasteurized Portugal goat cheese, beet root chutney, balsamic vinegar gel, grated dark chocolate, and grounded pine nut (with macerated pine nut) were layered. It was very creative to use macerated pine nut to prevent the taste of over-rich pine nut and use balsamic vinegar to balance the acidity. (20/20)

Bread

The chef has a bread recipe which he assigned to another chef to bake daily near by the Alma premises. The recipe requires an 8-year-old sour dough, 36 hours of fermentation of rye flour.

Bread served warm accompanied by whipped smoked butter (by apple wood spleen and cherry wood spleen) topped with salt flakes. Premium Distintus Olive served along the side is from Portugal. Bread has excellent quality, smooth and tasty. I have requested our special menu be served according to my preference.

I. Foie Gras. Apple, Granola, Beetroot, Coffee

Foie Gras of duck liver is from central France. Included in the plate are no sugar cereal, corn flack honey cinnamon, crumbled almond, pistachio cream (in green color), pickled and glazed Granny Smith apple, white wine vinegar, and slices of coffee sponge cake. Cooking was done in Sous Vide and coffee and coca were served in foam. Pickled apple and white wine vinegar kept the flavor and taste in balance. (19/20)

II.Scarlet Shrimp. Roasted Leek, Corn, Almond Emulsion, Orange

Baby leeks are rolled inside of large leaves (like art work), cooked in Sous Vide and roasted, taste half-raw almost like melt in your mouth, with pungent flavor. Corn purée is from grilled corn with Noisette butter and almond emulsion.

Orange cream is made by orange from Algarve in south Portugal. Almond butter cream is made with juice of head of shrimp. Juice from the head of shrimp is very umami and probably is the tastiest part of shrimp. Chef has made great efforts in enhancing the flavor and taste from every part of ingredient.

In Portugal, the “scarlet shrimp,” also known as “Carabineros” (meaning “police” in Portuguese, referring their bright red color), are a large, deep-sea prawn, also called Cardinal Prawns or Crevette. The sweet flavor of the scarlet shrimp and delicate texture and the size make it highly sought for as a premium ingredient. It has got not only bright red shell; it also has got bright red first layer of flesh. (20/20)

III. Stuffed Squid. Flavored Broth, Sun-dried Tomato

It is different from the ordinary stuffed squid; it is ultra-thin sliced squid covering some treasures underneath. It was brought to the table without sauce and then served with sauce. The treasures under the squid tagliatelle are chopped sun-dried tomato, chorizo black sausage with squid ink, onion, garlic. Served along with another umami flavored sauce made with squid stock, Katsuobushi (fermented, dried and smoked) tuna flake and parsley oil. (20/20)

IV. Monk Fish and Lobster Rice. Tomato and Coriander

Monk fish and blue lobster are from water channel between southern part of Portugal and northern part of Africa, close to Ceuta which at present time is an autonomous of Spain and has been a lookout for the Strait of Gibraltar since ancient time.

Lavagante, lobster in Portuguese, and monk fish are cooked Sous Vide, with salt, pepper, olive oil and thyme in bag. Chef must be a true master of cooking monk fish and blue lobster; the texture and flavor are the best that I have ever had. This course is served with Collagen cream made of coriander, broth of monk fish, tomato, fish liver purée, Kalamansi and coriander gelee. Carolina rice is from Ribategoo River valley, the region contains some of the nation’s richest agricultural land. Rice is cooked with seafood broth, yummy but not heavy. This course is so sumptuous, perfectly seasoned and well balanced. (20/20)

V. Suckling Pig Confit. Turnip Top Purée, Pickled Onion, Black Pepper Jus

Suckling pigs are usually roasted in wooden oven, ideally for those weighed 5-8 kilos with enough fat and still tender. It requires to marinate in Sous Vide bag for 36 hours followed by roasting 36 hours at 75 degrees till tender. During the cooking process, it requires to use confit juice to baste port belly regularly. To further enhance the flavor, one can also baste olive oil and thyme on pork belly. Once the cooking process is done, pork belly should be covered by a heavy stone or board with skin side at the bottom. The almost complete piece can then be stored aside until customer ready to order it. 

Pig is served with turnip and turnip leaves purée, confit juice and pickled onion. It is a true pleasure to hear the noise of biting on the crunchy pig skins. (20/20)

VI. Chocolate “Bomb”. Salted Caramel, Hazelnut Sorbet

It is a chocolate-themed multi-layered dessert of various forms. On the very exterior side is a dark chocolate glazed bomb covering a layer of chocolate mousse, with almond salted caramelized biscuit at the bottom. On the top of the cake is a twill for adornment along with Hazelnut sorbet, chocolate cream, hazelnut cream and toasted hazelnut. Chocolate is always welcome at the end of a meal. Besides the main dessert, there are petit fours. (19/20)

White Chocolate Puffed Rice

Black Pepper Salted Chocolate

Salty Pop Corn

Cream Custard Tart with Fennel and Anise

We were quite happy with the meal. Chef Henrique has gained his cooking techniques and expertise from all over the world, he has worked in gourmet temples like El Celler de Can Roca (in Gerona, Spain), which has been my favorite in the world. Alma was opened in 2009, closed in 2014, reopened in 2015, sleek and relaxed. Alma means “Soul” in Portuguese. At Alma, Chef Henrique accomplished a soulful cuisine of his international experience, his contemporary international flavor, his creativity with Portuguese roots. As what he defined of his cuisine: “A tasteful cuisine, refined taste, perfect technique and excellent products.”

 

ved according to my preference.