Sézanne, 4/24/2026, Tokyo, Japan (13-Course, ¥56,925 include. Taxes, excl. gratuity)

Sézanne, 4/24/2026, Tokyo, Japan (13-Course, ¥56,925 include. Taxes, excl. gratuity)

We happened to arrange our traveling to Japan in an auspicious time. The exchange rate between dollar and ¥ is so favorable to the dollar comparing to last year, consequently lower the cost of the meal in favor of dollar consumers. The price tag at Sézanne is expensive, however its cuisine is very polished and sophisticated.

The restaurant is undergoing renovation. The final passage to the correct location led us through a few hallways and waiting rooms with a strong Zen flavored ambiance and a high-end setting. We were led to the dining room which can seat 42 diners, in addition, there are a few private dining rooms.

Sézanne, located on the 7^th floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, Tokyo at Marunouche right next to the bustling Tokyo station, is a Fine Dining French restaurant (3 Michelin stars, #1 in Asia 2024, helmed by chef Stephen Lancaster who succeeded chef Daniel Calvert as of April 1, 2026. It served neo-classic French cuisine (different from Robuchon’s traditional French cuisine), offered Japanese, seasonal ingredients and Chinese influences in a refined, modern style.

At present, Sezanne offered only one Tasting menu. 

1).48 Month Aged Comté, Yebisu, Sherry Vinegar

48ヶ月熟成コンテチーズ エビスビール シェリービネガー

This first course is a real treat, a fabulous one bite starter with a burst of flavor. A warm canapé cheese tart had been made with hard-to-find 4-year-aged Comté. Crust/shell was thin and very crunchy, spread in the middle was made with warm Comté mousse, topped with Sherry vinegar jelly (involving a lot of baking technique and delicate work). Sherry vinegar was supplied by a local vendor. What made this one-bite so precious was its ingredients were hard to get among top of the line. I have had 36 months aged Comté in Paris a few years ago. Taste of the 48-months aged was truly smooth, mature and impressive. In addition, the chef’s creativity made the crust/shell ultra-thin and crunchy. Thru my attendant, I found out that chef use flour and beer to make the crust crunchy. From this amazing first course, I knew the current new chef Lancaster’s team has meticulous attention to details and commitment to reflect his superb craftmanship and technique. (20/20)

2).Shiro Ebi (White Shrimp), Cucumber, Espelette Pepper

白海老 きゅうり エスプレット

According to the Japanese language, 白海老 means white oceanic elderly (white shrimp may deceivingly look small). This kind of shrimp are from Toyama Prefecture, have an extra tender texture, preferably served raw. They have a sweet taste (not sugary sweet, but sweet seafood umami taste). To enhance the taste, many chefs used shrimp head juice creatively. In this dish, chef used the head juice to marinate shelled shrimp, then served with salsa, diced cucumber, lemon juice, wine jelly, mild-flavored sweet pepper and tomatoes. The baby shrimp are refreshing, tender and scrumptious, with a unique taste of tenderness and pleasant head juice taste (similar to a combination of mild-flavored squid ink and clam juice). (20/20)

3.)Funka Bay Scallop, Wakayama Finger Lime, Katsuobushi 

噴火湾産ホタテ 和歌山県産フィンガーライム かつお節

Funka bay, in Hokkaido, is a premier, renowned region for high quality Yesso scallops. These scallops are highly prized for their sweet, rich flavor and firm texture from slow growth in the cold environment and sustainable farming.  Chef Lancaster made a fancy basket to hold scallop in multiple ways of preparation. At the very bottom, scallop mousse and finger lime. Upward one level, a thinly sliced scallop crudo, fresh dill, and sour cream (It showed more distinctively to view from the side angle.). The shell was made of dill, flour and butter, another method of making shell/crust with crunchy texture. The thinly sliced scallop was barely enough to let the diners had a taste of the high-end scallop, although very delightful. The overall presentation makes it looks like an art work in the name of gastronomy. (20/20)

4).Amaou Strawberry, Foie Gras, Sandeman Port

あまおう フォアグラ ポートワイン

Chef Lancaster used different recipe to make crunchy shell. For this dish, he used all-purpose (AP) flour, butter and milk to make dough, shelled, fried in a special bakeware and dehydrated before filling with strawberry jelly coated Foie Gras mousse. Foie Gras mousse was prepared with Sanderman Port wine which is considered the most awarded port wine in the world, red ruby in color with aromas of red fruits. It is known for reliable, high-quality with complex notes of dried fruit, honey, and nutty oak. It pairs perfectly with aged cheeses or desserts or foie gras. Its logo features a caped man “The Don” in a Portuguese student cape. Once the Foie Gras mousse was prepared, mousse was molded into a ball shaped tart filling and coated with strawberry jelly when mousse was set in the molecular gastronomy process.

Chef included the Port to provide well balanced overall texture, flavor and taste. The making of this dish required delicate technique and experience. The strawberry jelly not only looked appetizing and mouth-watering, it looked outstanding. (20/20)

5).Hokkaido Kegani (Horsehair Crab), Provence Green Asparagus, Kristal Caviar 北海道産毛蟹 プロヴァンス産グリーンアスパラガス クリスタルキャビア

Hokkaido is renowned worldwide for its sweet and premium crab - Horsehair crab (Kegani), Snow crab, Hanasaki Gani (Color Crab) and King crab. Kegani, a Japanese delicacy known for its sweet, delicate and tasty flavor are considered one of the best in Asia.

Both crab meat and persimmon fruit are very cold type of food in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) theory, it is better avoid eating this food combination to circumvent potential hardship on the digestive system.

At the bottom of the plate, fresh crab meat and crab emulsion cream were served, surrounded by the cute baby tender and crispy asparagus tips from Provence. In the center of the plate, Kristal Caviar from Paris was served and sitting on top of asparagus emulsion. Crab meat was so umami, with the after taste, a customer would wish to ask for more. Price has been high due to increased demand and limited supply, as seafood grow very slowly with more intense flavor in cold water around Hokkaido. (20/20)

6).Coq Au Vin, Chicken Milk Bun

コック・オ・ヴァン 鶏肉のミルクパン

This dish uses only the upper part of the chicken wings where wings connect to the breast and shoulder, slow cooked with very low temperature. It had a melt-in-mouth type of tender texture. Chicken wings were stuffed with mushroom duxelles (a bit coarser than diced), then mixed with crumbled bacon, fresh onion, bone sauce and chicken sauce. Since it is Coq Au Vin, it required to have chicken cooked in red wine Coq Au Vin. It was served with a nice milk bun. It was a brioche. This is the first occasion to see bread in this meal since Japanese style dinner usually do not serve bread in basket like western style. (19/20)

7).Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid), Amela Tomato, Tarragon

ホタルイカ アメーラトマト タラゴン

Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid) are small cephalopods, typically just two or three inches long, famous for generate their own light, living in deep waters off Japan, migrating to the surface in spring to spawn in Toyama Bay, creating a natural light show. They are a seasonal delicacy in Japan, raw, boiled, marinated or grilled. In this dish, served with layered pasta with Tarragon flavor, layered pasta with tomato flavor, layered diced scallop, scallop sauce, and baby squid. It also has the fragrant Tarragon oil on the very top to balance this seafood accentuated delicacy. Firefly Squid are extremely tender, have a rich slightly sweet flavor with a creamy texture inside, just like baby white shrimp, a unique taste of seafood. (19/20)

8).Brioche With Bordier Butter

ブリオッシュ ボルディエバター

Bread and butter were very good, came out pleasantly warm with flaky layers. They were brioche loaves and Bodier butter from Brittany, France. Many Michelins 3-star restaurants in Paris started serving this kind of butter a few years ago, including Épicure where the previous Sézanne’s chef Calvert honed his skills and techniques. Bodier has got a distinctively yellowish glow and silky texture as a result of its signature maturation, kneading and pounding process with very yummy dairy flavor. (20/20)

9).Kinmedai (Splendid Alfonsino) From Chiba Prefecture, Miyagi Mussels, Vin Jaune

千葉県産金目鯛 宮城県産ムール貝 ヴァン・ジョーヌ

Kimedai (Splendid Alfonsino or Golden Eye Snapper) is a highly prized deep-sea fish in Japanese cuisine, especially for sushi and sashimi where it is regarded as a premium delicacy. It retains rich and natural oil and healthy omega-3 fat acids. Deep water dwelling (to 300 Meters), making it challenging and costly to catch. It is a bright red fish with very large eyes. Among deep sea fish, the closest fish that has the almost comparable flavor and taste would be Chilean Sea Bass. Because of its high fat content, it is tender, melt-in the mouth and slightly umami flavor.

In this dish, fish was caught from Chiba Prefecture located in the Eastern Pacific Coastline. Fish filet was placed skin side down on the grill in medium heat, because of its natural fish fat, a thin layer of crust was formed during the grill process. The fish filet taste with slightly crunchy top and rare-medium in the center, an ideal level of serving tender filet of fish. White asparagus was slow poached and served with meaty mussels and Vin-Jaune based sauce which is another rare treat.

Vin Jaune is a special type of wine, made from the late-harvesting of the Savagnin grapes with slightly higher alcohol of 13% - 15% ABV resulted from the 6+ year oxidated aging process. Vin Jaune sauce is a rich, creamy French reduction sauce originating from the Jura region. It is highly aromatic with a distinct nutty, sherry-like flavor. I was able to get a special dish, almost alike, at Septime, Paris in Feb. 2020. It was a true pleasure to have it again. (20/20)

10).Brittany Pigeon, Rhubarb, Snap Peas From Kagoshima Prefecture

ブルターニュ産鳩 ルバーブ 鹿児島県産スナップエンドウ

Roasted pigeon in medium-rare was succulent and tender. Breast was further divided into two categories – the core part and the extremely tender part. Pigeon breast was served with snap peas from Kagoshima Prefecture where all greens strive, rhubarb puree, green peas, reduced red wine and pigeon stock. The special piece of extra tender breast is noticeable only when you observe with great attention at the beginning of slicing and eating. It was a little triangle piece connecting to the rest of pigeon’s chest and back. They were separated from the rest of the bird at the very beginning of the cutting process. (20/20)

11).Pigeon Tart and Tea

鳩のタルト お茶

Pigeon was cooked and served in another style. A tart was filled with well-seasoned diced pigeon, pigeon liver, heart, leg, peas and sliced rhubarb stems. Top of the tart was covered by sliced rhubarb. Rhubarb was cut horizontally and then diagonally to show the edible and tender part of the plant. The crust of the shell was just as crunchy, thin and crispy, like the shell provided in Comté canapé cheese tart. In addition, a cup of tea consisted of pigeon stock (using primarily pigeon bones and excess meats) and lemon thyme oil to accompany the warm tart. (19/20)

Palette Cleanser - Musk Melon from Shizuoka Prefecture, Champagne, Mint

Sitting on the top, there were melon granite and melon made like a pale green flower with multiple pedals. It not only looked elegant; it tasted so pleasant and refreshing. It was served in Champagne form, most likely required molecular gastronomy technique to make the exquisite and attractive forms, and mint. At the bottom, there was Champagne sorbet and cream. I wished I could have more. (20/20)

12).Oscietra Caviar, Buttermilk, White Chocolate

オシェトラキャビアバターミルク ホワイトチョコレー

The official desert is white chocolate and Oscietra Caviar in sweet mode. At the bottom, there was white chocolate mousse, topped with butter milk and covered with Ocietra Caviar and edible ornament gold leaves. It was not great in quantity but very scrumptious. (19/20)

13).Mignardisesv – Petit Fours

ミニャルディーズ

It was a quasi-Kumquat tart, jiu-jitsu is the ultimate Açai family fruits, famous for its high anti-oxidant feather.

Chocolate brownie made with Okinawa brown sugar and Manjuri chocolate. It was not overwhelmingly sweet like other brownies, but temptingly tasty.

A candle-shaped chocolate mousse treat. Scrumptious, dark chocolate taste and creamy, an ideal indulgence at the end of meal. The making of any tube-shaped chocolate dessert is a real test of pastry chef’s technical know-how. It requires an ideal room temperature, an ideal melted chocolate temperature and chef’s skills to play with all conditions. (20/20)

It was a wonderful meal. Space and services were impeccable with high-end setting. Food was superb. Chef Lancaster, with his cross continent and cross-cultural experience was able to bring out his extra technical know how to make his cuisine to another level of perfection. His cuisine reflecting Japanese seasonality thru polished French technique with Scandinavian fermentation and aging to generate more creativity, balance, depth and harmony.

Central, Lima, Peru, 1/25/2025, Sol 1630 excl. Taxes and Gratuity

 Central, Lima, Peru, 1/25/2025 (13-Course, 1630 Sol, excl. Taxes and Gratuity)

Central, the #1 restaurant on the latest San Pellegrino list, is a well-guarded fortress located in the Barranco district of Lima. There are signs on the wheeled steel door “Central/Kjolle” indicating we are at the restaurant. Virgilió Martinez is the Executive Chef and his wife Pia León is the current Chef de Cuision and owner of Kjolle, next door. The host stand is right behind the electrical wheeled fence which secured a nice garden.  After a few minutes of walking in the garden, we saw a table with bowls of ingredients on the table signify various regions and altitudes of Peru which is the theme of Central.

We were seated in an area with tables made with black rocks inlaid. They were from Arequipa, each has its unique and elegant design.

When making a reservation, we have to pre-select which experience our party wants to take. Each experience offers dishes from various Peru ecosystem, such as ocean or the mountain. We have chosen Mundo En Desnivel which is a journey thru 13 different elevations of Peru. We began our dinner with the 1^st course on the menu. Each dish was accompanied with a short explanation of its ingredients, where they come from, each course is based on a different elevation within Peru. You eat your way thru below sea level (10 MBSL), to the Amazon (380 MASL), and high up in the Andes (2700 MASL).

I. Black Rocks. 10 MBSL.  Sargassum - Clams - Squid

Our culinary adventure starts 10 meters beneath the ocean’s surface, surrounded by the black rocks. In this underwater world, the Central team source unique marine ingredients like Codium, Yuyo, Sargassum and Sea Lettuce (in the right-hand side of the large tray). Sargassum forms the foundation of our dough, while Sea Lettuce and Codium add a vibrant green to the sponge accompanying razor clams (cured in algae). Donut made of algae (Sargassum, Kelp), baked in oven; With the wonder of molecular gastronomy, sponge made with Sea Lettuce, Codium (on top of algae) and plenty of ultra cold air. Our menu highlights the flavors of the sea. Featuring Barnacles, clams, crab head, with its rich roe and the delicate Yuyo seaweed (in the middle of the large tray). Crab is from Ica, with Yuyo on top. Ica lies on the border of Atacama Desert and has one of the driest climates in the world. I could not imagine the efforts the Central team made to gather all the ingredients in this ecosystem to present such a unique plate. (20/20)

II. Dry Valley. 900 MASL.  Shrimp - Loche Squash - Avocado

In a dry valley at the edge of the mountain chain, the Central team found river shrimps and loche squash, and endemic variety. The shrimp tails were served inside the squash; filled with a cream of the pulp and dover with a powder made with the ashes of the loche husk. On the side, an avocado dice with an avocado leaf dust.

Squash is in orange color; avocado is covered by ashes of avocado leaves and shrimp fossil is served with potato powder. Serving shrimp inside the mashed squash gives shrimp extra tenderness and ashes of avocado leaves and loche husk render penetrating fresh veg taste. (20/20)

III. Savannah. 380 MASL.  Aguaje - Doncella Fish - Hibiscuis

Continuing the journey in the Savannah, where the Central team discover the unique Aguaje fruit. A dual-textured creation is presented: one with its natural casing, the other a cloud-like mass of pulp, enhanced with Doncella fish filet cured in Hibiscus and served with syrup. The plate is adorned with a yacon-Mosaic, finished with a reduction of Yacon juice infused with beeswax. To complete this, Amazonian shrimp is accompanied by a subtle shrimp butter (orange, not in its ordinary form) and the vibrant green of sacha cilantro.

Syrup reduction of Yucon, a sweet root vegetable, is served on the side on a stone plate. (18/20)

IV. Extrema Altitude. 4200 MASL. Corn - Kiwicha - Kunuka

Ascending to extreme heights with corn and native grains, the Central team present five varieties of corns, including Choglo, Cancha, Chulpi, Kculli, and white corn. Sweet potato leaves (green leaves) and sweet potato from the garden and high-altitude Kiwicha (orange balls) are infused with a reduction of these corns. Add Cushuro, an algae harvested from high-altitude (black balls) lagoons at over 4000 meters above sea level. Served with corn broth. (18/20)   

V. Warm Sea Current. 15 MBSL. Murike Grouper – Razor Clams – Vongole

In the northern waters, the Central team find the succulent Mero Murike. It is served crispy with a hot vongole broth, infused with Aji Limo and Razor Clams dyed with Spinelli algae into blue color. Accompanied by lobster and smoked Sea Lettuce, finished with an algae gel. Served with Vongoli and razor clams’ broth.  

Large container is displayed with Grouper with Sea Lettuce and seaweed powder. (20/20)

VI. Rainforest Connection. 148 MASL. Cecina – Arapaima – Cassava

From the Andes to the Amazon, the Central team present the Paiche. Its tail is coated in a bone broth sauce with crispy Mishkina (pepper from Amazon) and Tucupi. Finished with a yuca leaf juice. Served alongside are leaves, native tomatoes, yacon, cured paiche belly and a cold preparation of paiche bones and fat. Fermented casava combined with mishkina made the little black balls taste like seafood. (20/20)

VII. Blue-Green Ocean. 0 MASL. Scallop – Yuyo Seaweed – Cucumber

The Central team return to the ocean floor where the freshest catch of the day is harvested. Selection includes a variety of textures and flavors featuring blue clams with spiraling, Ica scallops, Ica sea urchin and shrimps, served in sashimi style. The shells of what we eat are in display in the large tray. Yuyo and other seaweeds made black color balls resembling squid ink while shrimp made orange balls. The Central team have tried multiple ways of making black balls. The final touch on this presentation is the olluco, a family of potato, with red skin, made the decoration. (20/20)

VIII. Sea Brain Algae. 5 MBSL. Octopus – Sea Lettuce – Codium

The Central team dive into octopus’s ecosystem beneath the sea and its coral. This octopus is concentrated and dried with Codium, salt, and sea lettuce. A broth was prepared to cook it and cut it into pieces. Atop the dish, you’ll find textures created with algae that represent the moment the octopus hides beneath its coral. On the side a shot with octopus and sea lettuce stock. The presentation of this course designated three colors of coverings used: orange color - paprika, green - sea lettuce, brown -pepper+yuyo. (19/20)

IX. Amazonian Water. 180 MASL. Pacu – Bahuja – Beef

The Central team ascend 180 meters to Amazonian waters. Beef cheek is cured with Coca leaves accompanied by Sachapapa cream and strings with eff yolk. The Pacu, a wild river fish, is known to wait for fruits to fall from trees. The Central team wrap the fish and elements of its ecosystem, such as watermelon, cocona, Amazonian nut (shredded), and coca leaf powder, in a piece of lettuce. Feel free to use your hands for the lettuce and a spoon for the beef. (19/20)

X. Andean Forest. 2700 MASL. Pork Jowl – OCA – Callampa

At an elevation of 2700 meters in the Andean Forest, the Central team encounter a highland pig, of which only the jowl is used. The dishes feature the jowl paired with tubers and a callampa mushroom net. A platter showcases four distinct cuts and cooking methods of the same jowl. The high quality of the Jowl is better than my favorite Iberian pig. It melted in my mouth; the flavor and taste of the pork are the best that I ever had. 

Oca Ollaco in pink, yellow, purple and regular potatoes served under the Collampa mushroom net. Oca Olluca are root vegetables, has a mildly sweet flavor and slightly lemony taste often likened to a turnip.  (20/20) 

XI. Sacred Valley. 2800 MASL. Chirimoya – Andean Verbena – Black Maca Root

Chirimoya is a tropical fruit with a creamy texture and a strong, sweet flavor, has rough green skin, soft white flesh and large black seeds. It is also known as custard apple or sugar apple. Andean Verbena is in green color and Black maca root are in brown color. (19/20)

XII. Moray. 3600 MASL. Cabuya - Muña Leaf - Yacon

 

In the Sacred Valley and Moray, the Central team seek the convergence of two ecosystems that share the Cabuya, a South American cactus. The fibre in its leaves, known as fique, are used in making ropes. Within a beeswax vessel, you will find chirimoya, crispy lemon verbena, and black maca, alongside with Muña, a reduction of Cabuya juices, and a slice of Yacon. (19/20)

XIII. Cacao Chuncho. 1800 MASL. Mucilage – Seed Husk

This dish features Chuncho Cacao from Quillabamba, Cusco, presented in its entirety. A departure from traditional chocolate making. The cacao bean is explored in its entirety: a creamy pulp from the shell, a gelled mucilage, two forms made with the pulp and the fresh seeds over a cream made also with seeds. And nibs in two textures. A cacao sponge topped with cacao rocks completes the experience. Explore each element individually or combine them on the plate which features and air of the pulp and cream of the leaves and seeds. (19/20)

According to the latest Michelin awards in 2023, the world's #1 restaurant is Central in Lima, Peru. However, it has not been awarded any Michelin stars because Michelin doesn't publish a guidebook for Peru.

The presentation at Central is equally as important as the flavor and taste, or even more sometimes. I had seen something like it slightly in Noma, Copenhagen 12 years ago. Noma had a bit of more novelty-centered at the early stage. Central used leaves, seaweeds, volcano rocks, even Piranha head all in a unique way. To ensure the reliable source and quality of supply can be a daunting and costly job. I have never experienced plating quite like this. Make sure you listen carefully when you are presented each course, since you may gnaw away at a design component.