Eleven Madison Park, NYC

Eleven Madison Park, NYC ($365, 7/28/2018, 8-Course, incl. Taxes & Gratuity)

Eleven Madison Park was originally opened as a neo-brasserie by the well-seasoned restauranteur Danny Myer in 1998. Along with its steady ascent, Danny Myer decided to take it to a higher level by developing its potential. Around 2006, he hired Daniel Humm, a young successful chef from Switzerland and Will Guidara as general manager. Later in 2011 Chef Humm and Will Guidara became business partners and purchase Eleven Madison Park from Danny Myer’s Union Square Hospitality Group which owns a few successful and popular restaurants such as Union Square Café and Gramercy Tavern.

I have not revisited 11 Madison since its latest renovation last year. I have always enjoyed the dining experience there from my 1^st visit. The new layout gives it a slightly modern, but not too contemporary appearance, and makes guests feeling more at home.

It offered an 8-courses Tasting Menu in addition to a la Carte. I chose the Tasting Menu. Content of the menu was not presented at the beginning of the meal, guests would get a hard copy of menu at the end of the meal. The first 2 courses did not have multiple choices to choose. After that, each guest could choose one option from 3 choices in each course.

11 Madison did not provide Amuse Bouche. Instead, it had a box of BLACK AND WHITE cookies presented in a pretty string-tied box, one for each guest. This BLACK AND WHITE cookie has been one of 11 Madison’s signature dishes since my 1^st visit. It was sandwiched savory cookie with Cheddar and Apple filling. It tasted lighter than shortbread and it was a fun and delicious start.

1^st Course – Tomato Tea, Dosa and Tomato

Tomato tea was made with tomato juice, lemon thyme and summer herb bundle. It was served hot at the table. Immediately I could smell the aroma. The tea was quite refreshing, offering very sophisticated flavor on the taste bud.

Dosa was an Indian version of egg roll, although with slightly different shape. Inside the wrapping was orange tomato jam. Once Dosa was fried crispy, it was wrapped with shinto seaweed leaves (green color) at one end. Orange tomato jam had a distinctive taste. Dosa was served with grated Goat Cheese and Green Tomato jam adorned with cute onion flowers. Our server instructed us to eat Dosa with goat cheese and tomato jam together, they were complementary each other and provide the balance on the taste bud.  

In addition, there was Tomato salad with summer berries and red currants adorned with purple shiso flowers. It had the lightest taste among all sub-dishes in this course. It was like the quasi palate cleanser for the following course.

Bread was served with Dolce Cheddar Cheese spread. This bread was more like a super flaky brioche with very fine flakes in exterior and light texture in interior. Pastry chef used flour made from wheat grown in the Finger lake region. I have had this bread since my 1^st visit of 11 Madison. I have always very fond of it and had to restrain myself from eating too many of them.

2^nd Course – Corn Soufflé with Caviar and Bonito

Since Beluga sturgeon caviar has been on the endangered list, Chefs have to use farm-raised caviar. Caviar served in this course was from Snake Valley, Idhao, considered one of the best sturgeon caviars. The taste of caviar was mild, juicy and not salty. Quality caviar always has the lowest level of salt in order to allow the flavor of the eggs themselves and the character of the eggs themselves coming through.

The best part of this course was bonito sauce, specifically dry bonito sauce. It tasted different from the ordinary bonito sauce.

Summer corn was used to make corn soufflé. At the table, our server sliced the part of soufflé above the edge of the ramekin and served each of use only this portion. I made an inquiry and found out that the top part of soufflé usually produced the best quality. The bottom part sometimes could be too heavy and dense. Summer corn soufflé was light in texture and tasty. It was served with caviar from the Snake Valley, Idaho. Dry bonito sauce had a more shellfish like taste and the flavor was subtle and more appealing. Using the dry bonito sauce make this simple dish a wonderful culinary experiment. 

3^rd Course – Foie Gras Seared with Plum and Duck Prosciutto

Hudson Valley foie gras was seared tender, juicy and served with thyme and shallot crumbs. Everything was good except the cholesterol count. Usually foie gras was accompanied by some fruity, sweet, and sour condiment. In this course, Chef made plum purée, and beautifully arranged sliced plum, duck prosciutto (in the middle), shiso leaves and cute onion blossom.

4^th Course – Lobster Butter-Poached and Charred with Greens and Bean Ecrasse

A baby lobster tail was poached in butter to make tender and juicy. Lobster tail was wrapped in yam leaves. Slices of baby bean were cut in a diagonal angle, served along with shiso leaves and cream sauce made with condensed lobster juice. Yam leaves had a mild taste (milder than watercress), it was considered a very healthy vegetable to lower cholesterol. On the contrary, shiso leaves had a stronger taste. The varieties of vegetable were fresh but not overwhelming, they were in the plate to enhance the lobster’s unpretentious preparation.

5^th Course – Snails

Snails were from Peconic Farm in Long Island. Snails were poached first before set in a kabab stick arranged alternately with chanterelle mushroom ready for grill on the table. Grilling process was short enough to give snails the charcoal flavor but not overcooked snails. Our server emphasized that snails were almost fully cooked in the poaching process. In addition, there were five side dishes:

1). Ramp relish and mustard seed. Ramps are a wild onion also known as a wild leek, can be found from March to June. Ramps has a slighter stronger taste than scallions.

2). Chanterelle mushroom cream.

3). Pickled watermelon radish.

4). Fermented mint leaves by Kimchi process.

5). Swiss chard leaf on top covering bib lettuce leaf, with portobello mushroom purée sandwiched in between.

The proper way of eating them was to place grilled snails and mushroom on Swiss chard leaf along with the other 4 side dishes, and then roll the Swiss chard like an egg roll before you bite on it. It was different from the French way of serving snails. Some of the side dishes had very distinctive flavor on its own.

6^th Course – Rib Eye, Dried Aged and Grilled with Red Peppers

It was an unusual 140-day dry aged rib eye. I could see some marbleized fat, but not quite as marbleized as A5 Wagyu. Because of the long aging process, beef had a perfect, flavorful and succulent taste. In the plate, there was pimento purée, sautéed red pepper, sautéed onion and mustard seeds, with a small piece of beef prosciutto in the middle, and served with condensed beef jus.

There were a few side dishes:

1). Corn - Creamed corn with juniper berry and grated egg yolk.

2). Zucchini - Roasted zucchini with goat cheese, lemon and mint.

3). Broccoli – Bulgar wheat enclosed by sautéed broccoli.   

Chef Humm’s side dishes were all pleasant and tasty. They were fresh and refreshing.

We were offered a tour of the newly renovated kitchen. At the entrance to the kitchen, the newly installed cabinet had a nice look. Kitchen was departmentalized into various section, each is responsible for a particular type of dishes such as appetizers, meat, fish and desserts. We were offered a little treat which as a lollipop of strawberry jam cover by lemon icicle powder made with Molecular Gastronomy technique. The major new appliance was the closet to age animal cadavers. It was a large glass closet with temperature and humidity control to properly age the meat to the desired level. It was always fun to visit Michelin starred restaurant kitchen.

7^th Course – Triple Crème

These were the little cuties of brioche with Cambert cheese stuffed inside. The top part of brioche was crunchy and inside was the still soft ang gooey Cambert cheese. These brioche buns were accompanied by some cherry purée and basil crème fraîche. Each guest was served with 2 brioches. These brioches were delightfully pleasing visually as well as palatially.

8^th Course – Chocolate Sorbet with Shortbread and Coffee Meringue

 It was a chocolate tart enclosed by chocolate sheet. On top of tart, there were 4 different flavors of crumbs – Cocoa nibs, Caramelized milk solid by separating curd from milk and then adding brown sugar, Coffee granite and Coffee meringue. It was a lovely, exquisite and delicious dessert with a very satisfying combination of flavors, but it was hardly the most intricate of fancy Michelin three-star dessert like what El Celler de can Roca served. I wonder this may be determined by Chef Humm’s emphasis on simplicity, purity and seasonal flavors.

Complementary Dessert – Peach Compote and Shingles with Honey Custard

We were also offered a complementary peach dessert. Peaches were sliced and cooked, and glazed. Honey custard were served with peaches to enrich the fruity taste.

Chocolate Covered Pretzel

This was a quasi-petit fours. I remembered I had it a while ago, almost the same time when I first had the black and white cookies. Pretzel’s dough is more like butter cookie dough and they were made with perfect shape and delicious.

Chef Humm and his partner Will Guidara have always been seeking reinvention to the better. In their 2011 Cookbook, they wrote “this restaurant has never been satisfied with its current point of success” and we’ve been about endless reinvention”. In 2016, they changed course with a theme of minimalistic and pragmatic menu, intended to offer the diner more choice and freedom. It is an approach that seems to be more geared for the NYC residents who are always too busy to enjoy an intense dinner at leisure, and are the casual diners. But, there are also guests who want as intense an experience as possible and a restaurant like 11 Madison Park should also cater to their needs as well. I like to compare my experience at 11 Madison with my experience at El Celler de can Roca (the #2 on the San Pellegrino list, €180 for a 7-Course + 12 appetizers) and Martin Berasategui.

The food at 11 Madison was certainly seasonal. The attention to detail, the precision and the execution of dishes were excellent. But, the level of innovation and creativity seemed to be not much on the plate. During my recent trip to Northern Spain, I had many eye-opener opportunities to see the innovation practiced by the chefs with or without Molecular Gastronomy technique. Judging by the menu at 11 Madison, the menu seemed to lack the level of intricacy, complexity and luxury that the new generation of three Michelin star restaurants in Europe normally deliver.

ABaC, Barcelona

ABaC, Barcelona (€155, 5/27/2018, 12 Course, incl. VAT)

ABaC started in 2000 and moved to the current site, the leafy residential San Gervasi barrio, a wealthy enclave by the hill side of Barcelona, in 2008. It is within a boutique hotel “Hotel ABaC Barcelona”, 10 metro stops from Plaça de Catalunya. Head chef Jordi Cruz, focused on Modern Spanish Cuisine, has won the 3-star accolade since 2017 and he was not an el Bulli alumni. 

Guests can look out onto a garden through picture windows while in dining room. Tables are adequately spaced and covered with impeccably white linen tablecloths reminiscent of what Martin Berasategui, Lasarte had.

There were 2 sets of Tasting Menu – Menu Tradition for €155 and Menu Avant Garde for €185. I chose the smaller one, Menu Tradition. I was escorted to the kitchen first to enjoy the first three courses of bite-size appetizers.

Appetizers

1).  Lime Cactus, Tequila and Green Leaves

There was a cute little cactus plant on the kitchen counter. On top of the plant, it was filled up with apple crunchy, celery purée, corianders, lime juice, Tequila foam and Begonia flower. The inclusion of Tequila made this simple appetizer refreshing and enjoyable. 

2). Crunchy Bread with Spicy Tomato Sauce and Basil

Spicy tomato mousse wrapped by crunchy bread and garnished with basil mousse. It was slightly spicy but very flavorful and pleasant.

3). Galicia Salmon and Cured Egg Yolk, Trout Eggs, Soya Butter and Nori Textures

Nori was mixed with grains and made into a taco shell, filled up with Galicia salmon from Northern Spain, cured egg yolk, trout eggs and soy butter foam. Cured egg yolk complemented to the overall perception with its subtle and distinctive taste.

I was then escorted to get seated in the dining room.

1^st Course – Bloody Mary on the Rocks and Bloody Mary’s Macarons

The last time I had this sort of combination was at Pierre Gagnaire a few years ago. It was one of my favorite dishes there. Bloody Mary on the rock served at ABaC was slightly different. Its ingredients include Vodka, salt, tobacco, and tomato water (no color – with the blood red of the tomato drip-filtered). The process of filtering tomato somehow gave a more anemic taste and flavor. But, it was still a delicious drink, especially when accompanied by the macaron.

Bloody Mary sorbet was sandwiched in between macarons. Sorbet was perfectly flavored and with good consistency. Macarons were fresh and light. A perfect match for the palate.

2nd Course – Whipped Hazelnut Butter with Bread Crusts and Caviar

Asturian Caviar was from Netherland. Butter was mixed with hazelnut purée and hazelnut oil and formed a bell-shaped ball. Hazelnut powder and olive were garnished on top of butter ball. This bell-shaped butter ball was softer than ordinary whipped butter because it was lightened by cream. It was a different way of accompanying caviar.

3rd Course – Almond and Foie Gras Shaves with Honey, Vanilla and Miso

Even though chef Jordi Cruz was not an el Bulli alumni, he still diligently performed molecular gastronomy. At the very top, there was a sheet of honey foam covering shaved frozen foie gras and vanilla foam. At the bottom, there was almond ice cream, miso and almond crunchy. It was a fusion dish, but it was also nicely balanced and tasty.

Three different types of bread were offered, plain white, seed bread and apricot and nut bread. Accompanied by one type of butter. I requested for apricot and nut bread only.

4th Course – Chinese box: Chinese Bread, Fried Brioche, Grilled Eel and Wasabi

It was brought to my table in a shrine-shaped wooden box. As I opened the lid, there was a fried Chinese bun inside. As I opened the sandwich bun, I saw a piece of grilled eel with teriyaki sauce. My server grated some fresh wasabi on it. Wasabi’s fast fading fieriness and grilled eel’s smoky and teriyaki flavor were good complement.

5^th Course – Roasted Turbot and Barnacles with Seaweed, Baked Eggplants and Treated Skins

A mouth watering piece of roasted turbot was artistically presented in the center of the plate and surrounded by 2 layers of cream/sauce and served with 2 pieces of barnacles from Galicia, Northern Spain. The best part of the fish was the glazed skin which was crispy and full of flavor. Outer layer sauce was made of fish broth, shellfish and aubergines (eggplants). There were also pickled onion (in pink) to complement the seafood flavor. At the very top, Ramallo seafood foam covering turbot to maintain the moisture in fish. Overall, the cream and sauce were incredibly intense in flavors and complemented well with the turbot.

When I visited Santiago de Compostela and Oviedo at the beginning of May, I saw some barnacles at restaurants with not so fresh quality, therefore, forgoing the opportunity to enjoy it. I was delighted to have it at ABaC. It has an odd-looking skin and tastes a bit like abalone. I personally considered abalone is tastier. Barnacles has been treasured partially probably because its hard-to-harvest condition. Fisherman had to risk their life to pick the best barnacles from the cliff incessantly hit by treacherous water. At present, it costs approximately approximately €150 - €200/kilo.

6^th Course – Tuna Rice, Mediterranean Tomato Stew, Tuna Bely and Pecorina Romano

It was brought to my table in an earthy looking urn. At the bottom of the urn, there was an almost translucent tuna toro. Toro sat on cooked rice and seaweeds and served with tomato stew and spices including garlic, basil, julienned scallion and micro green. At the very top, it was covered by Pecorina Romano cheese foam. At the bottom, brown sauce was made from the thickened tuna sauce. It was another well-balanced fusion product.

7^th Course – Amélie Esmerald Oyster with Fermented Kale and Chargrilled Piparras Chili Peppers

It seemed that chef at ABaC has created a few versions of Amélie Esmerald oyster-based dishes mainly comprised of fermented vegetable and smoke flavored piparras pepper. In this dish, it was fermented kale (in pale yellow), purée, fried green kale, charcoal grilled piparras chili pepper. In addition, salted butter was used to cover the oyster. In US, we usually eat oyster with cocktail sauce mainly comprised of ketchup, horseradish, lemon juice and tobacco sauce to make a nicely balanced taste. Chef at ABaC used different combination to make the overall taste more balanced.

8^th Course – “Our Pine Cone”: Cured Lamb Tea and Pine Leaves

This was served as an auxiliary item with the roasted lamb. Lamb broth with pine leaves infused tea. Had a distinctive pine flavor, served as a refresher.

9^th Course – Roasted, Cured and Dried Suckling Lamb Meats, Confit Small Artichokes, Pine Shoots, Pistil Crud and Caramelize Jus

There were 3 parts in this dish, lamb from Catalunya. 1). Cured, dried and roasted lamb. 2). Roasted baby lamb loin. 3). Cheese curd. Dried and cured lamb was really flavorful, it tasted a bit crunchy. Roasted baby lamb loin was finger-licking good, the meat was tender, you did not even need a knife. Cheese curd was almost like yogurt, but a bit firmer than yogurt and had a custard-like firmness. Confit baby artichokes, served as a neutralizer, was so delicious. Caramelized jus form lamb stock made me feel I wouldn’t mind to stuff a bit more.

10th Course – Chamomile “pillow”, Milk and Biscuit Roll with a Touch of Lightly and Spicy Citruses

Cookie crumbs were at the bottom where a white fragile crate made of inside layer and outside layer. Inside, there were lemon grass with chamomile ice cream; outside, there was milk infusion of Earl Gray tea foam and sheet. It was pretty looking, it incorporated cold and warm, sweet and sour, a truly pleasant palate cleanser. Some critics have written that chef Jordi Cruz’s dishes are as pretty as he is good looking.

11^th Course – Chocolate Fragile Crate

It was a chocolate crate sitting on chocolate paper and chocolate foam at the bottom, with caramel chocolate on the top for artistic presentation. As I cut it open to eat the inside of the chocolate crate, it was filled with vanilla ice cream and milk foam, toffee chocolate with mint, chocolate with coffee, strawberry with beet. It was a chocolate galore.

12^th Course - Sweet Pumpkin

The petit fours were served in a gold toned set resembling pumpkin flower, with the various sweets held by the various endings. They included raspberry marshmallows, violet yogurt, chocolate nougatine, pumpkin flower, chocolate amaretto, cheese cake. One stood alone item was its famous signature frozen lipstick desserts. This lipstick looking item was presented in a rock-looking block with trough, it was a strawberry lollypop (lipstick case) filled up with frozen strawberry slush. The content inside the lipstick varied from meal to meal. Petit fours were all light and flavorful, ideal for pleasing your palate without over burdening your stomach.

I liked Chef Jordi Cruz’s cuisine. It was innovative, not just for being creative without making perfection on the taste, flavor and balance. Even though he was an el Bulli alumni, he was able to master the art of molecular gastronomy. At present, ABaC (a Michelin 3-star) under-prices its Tasting Menu comparing with Lasarte’s (also a Michelin 3-star) €205. I wonder how much longer it would stay at the current level.